ŠĻą”±į>ž’ KMž’’’HIJ’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’ģ„ĮM ų戼bjbjā=ā= "„€W€Wˆø’’’’’’lnnnnnnn:E:E:E:E|¶EœĶ‹¾^HĪ,Q,Q,Q,Q,Q,Q,QL‹N‹N‹N‹N‹N‹N‹$‹ «¦r‹n,Q,Q,Q,Q,Qr‹:dnn,Q,Q‡‹:d:d:d,Qž n,Qn,QL‹:d,QL‹:d:dŹeŖøv|nn0x,QRH Ąø”ÆFMĖ6@:EŹ\‚4w0x‹0Ķ‹FwźQLcīQ0x:d‚*¬XnnnnŁGuidelines for Rottweiler Babies in Rescue By Diane Richardson © 2003 (see last page for “rules of use” for this booklet) frontierrots@msn.com Pregnant Bitches and Nursing Moms: * DO NOT vaccinate pregnant bitches! * See the list of medications not to be used on pregnant bitches, appendix 1 attached. * Feed pregnant bitches their normal ration plus about ¼-1/3 more the last week or two of pregnancy split into 2-3 meals per day. IF the bitch is thin (meaning her ribs and/or spine are visible in any way) then of course feed her more as long as she does not get diarrhea. Water intake and urine output is greater during pregnancy, so keep that in mind. This increased water intake is essential for puppy fluids and for the production of milk. * You should definitely read “Successful Dog Breeding” By Walcowicz and Wilcox. It provides details of the whelping process and any possible problems with bitch or babies. This book is essential for every group that takes in moms with babies. The group can buy 1 copy and pass it around to whoever is fostering the bitch. * DO NOT allow anyone in the room with mom and pups until the babies are at least 4 weeks old. New moms are often highly protective and can step on a baby in her agitation. Additionally there is a slight danger of her biting a stranger or even a family member other than her primary caretaker during this time if they come near her babies! * You need a room that no other dogs will ever go in. A kid pool is ideal for birthing through about 3 weeks or when the pups start climbing out, whichever comes first. Another option is to take 4 boards 6-8" high and make a box. You then line the birthing/maternity box/pool with papers and warm bedding that is hard for the mom to bury the pups in. An extra heat source is not necessary if you can keep the room about 70 degrees until the pups are 2-3 weeks old, then you can reduce it to 60 or 65 and open the windows for ventilation on warm days. If the room is too warm for the bitch, she won’t lay with the babies or will be too fidgety and might squash a baby. Many, many people erect a small pen around the birthing area so that the bitch is confined and not free to destroy or potty in the room. * The bedding will need to be changed once or twice daily for the first couple weeks. More often after that. Absolute clean is the best way for you to avoid sickness. Do not use bleach or strong chemicals to clean. (UNLESS you have a viral worry. In that case rinse very, very well before putting the pups back) Bleach interacts with urine and makes a fume that causes respiratory distress in babies. I use Sun and Earth- a natural orange type kitchen cleaner or Dr Bronners peppermint soap – either product mixed with hot water makes a great puppy pen cleaner. * Mom needs as much water as she wants. Make sure the pups cannot get into her water container! * Feed her in a crate or away from the pups as some moms are horrid about pups near food bowls. * Each time you enter the room, place the smallest pups on the rear nipples as these produce the most milk. * The first two weeks are the most likely time for the babies to die, be squashed, etc. It is best to set up a baby monitor so you can hear if a baby is crying and may need assistance. * Pups are normally 12-18 oz at birth and should gain 1-3 oz per day the first 3 weeks. (Sometimes they have a day or two during the first week where they do not gain BUT they should not lose) IF you don’t have a baby scale, you can go by feel. Healthy pups have full bellies most of the time, They are fairly quiet except when cold, hungry or after the tails are done, they have skin that snaps back into place right away and when you pick them up they feel toned- kind of like a big muscled snake :) You'll get the idea after a few days. *If you plan to dock tails on pups that are marked like Rottweilers, they need to be done by 3 to 5 days at the oldest. Vets all do it differently. Make sure yours does not use the "twist them off method" and yes, it's as nasty as it sounds.  Some inject a teeny bit of Novocain at the base. That is the best veterinary way but not many do it that way. Some stitch the dock and some glue it, either works though some bitches will bother stitches (Once their tails are done supervise mom with them for several hours. Sometimes they get obsessive about the dock site and sometimes they are upset about the stranger handling the pups. ) You do NOT want her in the building when the tails are done. If the vet comes to your home, have a family member take her for a walk and bring the pups to your kitchen. IF you take them to the vet’s office, take her too, but have a family member sit in the car with her. Pups should travel in a box with a hot water bottle in your lap. Not loose with mom. See if she will nurse them one at a time or so in the car before going home. You'll need to be sure to keep everyone's butts clean and sanitary while they heal If the pups are older than 3-5 days old when they arrive and still have tails, just accept that they will have tails. Docking older than 5 days of age is amputation and highly undesirable. Copyright Diane Richardson, free use as long as document is not be altered and must be printed or emailed in it’s entirety * If you have a weak pup or one that is not doing well, do not dock that pup’s tail as the added stress might kill it. Any pup or pups not gaining well should be supplemented with a homemade formula and bottle. My formula is: 8 oz evaporated (NOT condensed milk) 1 medium egg 1 tablespoon light karo syrup 1 dropperful human baby vitamins Mix really well and strain out the big egg clumps Heat formula to 100 degrees (careful not too hot) and feed the baby as much as it will eat until the tummy feels like a soft (NOT hard) boiled egg. Feed with the pup fairly horizontal laying on it's tummy, not on it's back like a human For pups that are not well or who are not getting milk from mom: Week one feed every time the baby wakes up but don't wait longer then every 3 hours. Burp afterward. Wipe face with a warm cloth and wipe rear with another warm cloth to stimulate pee/poop. As the pup gets older, they can go longer between feedings. For pups who need a little extra help: Put these pups on a back nipple each time you enter the room. When everyone is done nursing, bottle feed everyone who has not gained enough weight that day to just top them off. If a pup gets shoved into a corner and is cold remember! Don't feed when the pup is cold. First warm it up. IF you use a heat pad make sure the pad is not hotter than 80 degrees * Rottweilers are prone to a genetic heart condition known as Sub Aortic Stenosis. Baby pups severely afflicted with this will have very pale gums and an audible heart murmur as young as 1 week old. Rottweiler pups are also prone to innocent murmurs. Innocent murmurs are rarely greater than a grade 2 out of 6, at 8 weeks of age and innocent murmurs disappear by 6 months of age. SAS on the other hand increases as the pup gets older until about 3 years of age. Severe cases are fatal at young ages and mild cases can live a normal lifespan. ANY pup with pale gums as an infant should be watched closely and a vet consulted. These pale gum babies are prone to dying before 8 weeks of age. Any pup with a murmur of any grade at 8 weeks should be re checked at 6 months and 1 year at minimum to get a diagnosis of innocent or SAS * If you live anywhere cold and/or with snow, do not leave the bitch outside too long as her breasts will get frostbite. * You can try to wipe her breasts down daily with a wash cloth and warm water to keep them clean. ESPECIALLY between the breast rows as all kinds of gunk collects there Copyright Diane Richardson, free use as long as document is not be altered and must be printed or emailed in it’s entirety * Once the babies are a week old you can snip the ends off their nails once a week so they scratch mom less * Be sure to hold every pup at least once a day. Rub their feet, faces, bodies. Hold them in your lap on their backs etc.. This is good for their sensory learning. Any pups with issues about a body part, (usually faces) try to work with that pup twice a day. * Eyes open around 14 days (boy are they cute then!) Ears open around day 21. Once the ears open you can call "puppy, puppy" each time the mom comes back. Later you will do this as you feed them (around 4-5 weeks) this sets them up for a great come when called :) * After 3-4 weeks old you will need something higher than a kid pool to confine them. An ex pen is ideal, but you will need to cover the bottom half with cardboard etc, so that heads don’t get stuck between the bars.  * When you switch from the birthing pen to the pen, be sure to set up ½ for sleeping and ½ for pottying. Place papers on one half and bedding on the other. * After 5 weeks mom should sleep in a crate away from them. * Pups need to be with mom -at least a few hours a day- (even if she is no longer nursing them) and with their littermates, for 8-10 weeks. This is the best way to make sure they develop normal dog language skills and bite inhibition. IF however mom has a weird temperament (shy, barky, unstable, etc.) Take her away from the pups by 6 weeks old and bottle feed them the rest of their babyhood. Expose them to your own gentle, healthy and social dogs for canine language lessons. ALWAYS supervised of course. * Make a plan as soon as is possible about where you will keep mom and babies when they start to walk. You don't want them able to get behind anything or into anything. The floor needs to be easily cleaned. Many people get a baby fence and set it up in the kitchen or living room. Fix it so one side is just a foot high so Mom can get in and out without jumping (squashing pups) You can build one too out of 2' high wood 3 sides and 1' high the last side. They will climb the 1' side eventually (and even the 2' side) but not right away. If mom is to be restricted, you can gate off that room. Puppies Obtained Without a Mom * Attempt to age the pups using the chart in Appendix 2 attached. Get as close of an age as possible and then treat the puppy like it is 1 week younger. The reason for this is that rescue puppies often have had a very bad start in life and are often behind in mental and physical development for their age. It is important to get an approximate age for medical treatment and raising purposes. This keeps behavioral expectations where they should be and enables appropriate medical treatments to be given. * Feed rescue puppies that are obtained without a mom, the highest quality food you can. They are often malnourished and may have trouble digesting normal dog food. If the puppy has no interest in eating, make a home made food at first and slowly wean onto a high quality puppy diet. See Appendix 4 * Do not worm and vaccinate these pups all at once. Because of their bad start and lack of a mom, their systems often react poorly to over assault with vaccines and wormers. Ideally the pup should be tested for worms and those eliminated before vaccinating. * Do not neuter these pups until they are healthy and at a proper weight as surgery during a weakened state will often cause a collapse of the pup’s systems resulting in illness. Worming schedule, IF you have the pups from birth: * worm mom at pup weeks 2 and 4 with Nemex 2. Then at pup week 6 OR 8 with Interceptor- whichever is closer to her HW preventative schedule. Interceptor is a much more efficient and safe product for moms and babies than Heartgard or Heartgard+   *worm babies with Nemex 2 @ 2, 4, 6, 8 weeks. Stool check at 8 weeks for confirmation all are clear. Worming schedule, IF you don't have the pups from birth and they are 3 weeks + old: *worm mom with Interceptor and pups with Nemex 2, re check fecal in 2 weeks , if positive at that point for rounds worm or hookworms  then treat with Nemex 2 and recheck in 2 weeks *worm pups every 2 weeks with Nemex 2 til you get a clear fecal. OR if positive at 8+ weeks old for something other than hookworms or round worms treat with weight appropriate Interceptor Vaccinations * Mom can be vaccinated when pups are 7 weeks old, BUT not for everything at once. My choice is, of course, a Rabies vaccine first, all else can wait a little while. * Pups 1st vaccine-Progard DPV at 7 to 9 weeks 2nd vaccine-Progard DPv OR Progard 5 at 12 to 14 weeks 3rd vaccine-Progard 5 OR a titer for Distemper/Parvo at 16-18 weeks (IF you just have to give a leptospirosis, wait and give one with this set of vaccinations) Rabies 2 -4 weeks after the last vaccination * NO topical flea products for pregnant or nursing moms (Flea or tick collars of any kind, Biospot, Revolution, Frontline, sprays etc.) Food- Mom and Pups *Bitches need normal ration PLUS about 1 extra cup for each pup by the time the babies are 3 weeks old. This then tapers back after 4 weeks. Give as much water as she wants. Be sure to feed the bitch in a crate because many bitches are possessive of their food and may growl at or grab an approaching baby *pups start eating after 3 weeks old. Start with either raw chicken or beef burger and formula OR finely mashed meat canned food and formula. Mixed to soupy mess *after 4 1/2 weeks old start thickening this food up a bit *after 5 weeks old make 1 meal soaked and smashed puppy kibble with a dash of formula + meat+ warm water. IF a water dish is provided it should be very shallow as many pups have drowned in water dishes and buckets *After 6 weeks old make 2 of the meals soaked puppy kibble etc as above but less meat *After 7 weeks old feed 3 meals of the soaked kibble and warm water but smashed less and little formula or meat  at all (unless the foster home wants to keep the meat- my pups stay on 50% real meat/ 50% kibble til at least 6 months old) *After 8 weeks old soak the kibble still less and no smashing. Warm water still but no formula *Sick pups need to go back to eating meat, formula and soaked puppy kibble til they are eating well again (see appendix 4) Copyright Diane Richardson, free use as long as document is not be altered and must be printed or emailed in it’s entirety Crate Training *Crate training starts at 5 weeks old by feeding in crates. At 5 weeks old they still all sleep together but Mom sleeps in a crate. * At 7 weeks old they start sleeping in crates in pairs at night, but everyone is still together during the day * At 8 weeks old they are sleeping in crates singly at night, plus for some naps during the day * At 9-10 weeks old they are ready for new homes or separate foster homes. Potty time * 8 week olds have to potty after sleeping, eating, playing, drinking and about every 20 minutes if they are awake. They can sleep crated at night for 2-6 hours. Housebreaking is a concept that most pups are grasping but their bodies are simply not able to control elimination well. * By the time they are 16 weeks old, holding power has increased lots and housebreaking can hold real meaning to their bodies now *Puppies can never be loose in the home without being supervised. The more "accidents" they have the longer housebreaking takes. My pups are never out of my sight in the house til after 5 months old so that I can take them out at the first indication they need to go and prevent accidents Foster Home Puppy Raising Guidelines Your job as a puppy raiser is a very important one. Without you, the puppies in the rescue program would not have the chance to grow up to be well adjusted adults! The following are the Golden Rules of puppy raising. Follow them and you will have done your best to mold your foster baby into a great dog! The following are VERY important things you MUST teach your foster baby * Bite inhibition per the bite inhibition appendix. * Crate training and housebreaking The pup must sleep in a crate at night and must be crated whenever you cannot strictly supervise him/her! NO COLLARS ON THE PUP WHEN CRATED!! Get the little bugger on a schedule and stick with it. Take the pup out every 20-60 minutes when he/she is awake. The better YOU are at watching the pup and at sticking to a schedule, the less accidents the pup will have and the faster housebreaking will progress. NO water or food after 7 pm! Limit water before being crated if you will be away from home. If you want an actual housebreaking schedule example or have a question about housebreaking just ask After 14 to 16 weeks of age the pup is able to "hold it" for longer periods of time and this ability grows with age. *Trade toys and valuables. Teach the pup to "give". Trade treats for toys at first until the pup understands the concept of Give. WORK on this lots! Rottweiler pups are VERY resource possessive naturally and it is up to us to teach them how to share with humans!  It is OK to always trade food for possessions for the first few months as long as you do not ask for the item and then when they refuse you go and get a treat. After a few months of them being conditioned to give up an item to get a better one then they are able to handle the switch to random food rewards (a treat given to them only sometimes instead of every time) Praise while helpful is NOT a good enough reward no matter how much we wish it so. Only later on does the dog associate praise with wonderfulness :) *Work on body handling. Handle the pup's face, mouth, feet, etc.. Whatever they are the worst about handle the most. Praise for every second they are good at first, then for longer periods of good behavior. When you are done give them a treat. Clip their nails each week, again praise for EACH nail and give a treat when done. As above after being conditioned with treats for a few months they can then handle the switch to random food rewards and praise *Work on house manners. No chewing inappropriate items. Redirect the puppy to good chew toys each time you catch them chewing a forbidden item and PRAISE happily for chewing the right item. No trash diving, counter surfing or coffee table stealing. Best punishment for young pups is a squirt from a spray bottle to the face while saying no or leave it. No cat chasing. No human jumping (ignore the jumping pup totally until they sit or wander off or at least keep 4 on the floor, then pat them and praise) *Basic training. Using food treats teach the puppy to sit and down and come at the very least. They may not know the commands perfectly but you should be able to get the behaviors well started. Use food treats and a flat collar to teach loose leash walking. The younger the pup the easier this is. Praise for walking near you on a loose leash and pop a tiny treat piece in the pup’s mouth. You won't get far at first but when the light comes on and the pup understands things will go faster! * Noise tolerance. hair dryers, pots dropped on the floor, engine sounds. Traffic sounds, telephones, televisions, shopping carts, radios. You name it you can expose them to it. The more variety the better. It is helpful to keep a list. Each week there should be lots of exposures to sounds and aim for as much variety as is possible *Socializing!! People, people and more people. Kids big and small. Teens, boys, girls, men, woman, old, young, black, white, hairy, bald, beards, hats, sunglasses etc.. Again the more the better. Petco is a great place for this. (Pups under 12 weeks old should be carried when at places that strange dogs may have been to avoid germs) BRING treats. If the pup is afraid of someone just have them talk to the pup at a comfortable distance and throw treats at the pup. Never force the pup to go up to anyone. Pups like kids go through stages and as long as strangers always mean treats they will become conditioned to think good thoughts and will overcome their fears. Dogs. Try to find healthy dogs you know to play with the pup and continue his/her dog language training and social skills classes. Do not let dogs too big play with young pups as they have easily damaged bones Cats, bunnies, horses etc.. Whatever you can expose the pup to safely the better Remember that Rottweilers need socializing for a much longer period than the average dog (approximately 18 months) to remain social with people and strange surroundings. What this means is that even though older pups are now big and not so portable, that you still need to take them at LEAST once a week out on the town to places where they will meet and be talked to/touched by lots of people. PetCo, the park, shopping centers, family get togethers etc... If you stop these socializing trips at 3-6 months old or just make outings an occasional thing the pup will become less social as time goes on. Also keep in mind that at some point between 2 and 3 months and again at 6 and 12 Copyright Diane Richardson, free use as long as document is not be altered and must be printed or emailed in it’s entirety months many Rottweilers go through a stage where they can be leery or fearful of strangers. That's ok, just get them out a little more and have people toss small food treats at them. Don't force them to go near people they act leery of just have the person pitch a few snacks at them and tell them what a nice puppy he is and then walk away on a good note  During these “cautious” stages many pups start barking or growling at strangers. This barking/growling at this age is not protectiveness. It's a stage and or a socializing issue. At the risk of repeating myself, get pups who are exhibiting these signs out even more, to physically meet people as much as possible, under as many different situations and locations as is possible. Have everyone possible give the pup a tiny (dime sized or smaller) piece of chicken, beef, turkey, cheese etc.. So that they think everyone they meet will be great! If they back away from people have them toss the treats to the pup and not push themselves on him. At this young age you want to convince pups that all humans are wonderful. Protectiveness in the real form (as opposed to the lack of experience, if I growl or bark it might go away form) comes after 18 months Basically, no typical puppy under 18 months has the experience and self confidence to have true protective ability. Any exhibit of what looks like it should be taken as a sign the socializing needs to be stepped up for this particular stage of mental development. As long as the puppy is friendly and not growly/barking at strangers who are not doing bad things to him or being scary (like vets or thugs) then the level of socializing is adequate for the moment. It comes and goes. I think it's to keep us on our toes!!! *Cars. Take the pup for at least a quick ride every day to make them comfortable with this. If they tend to get sick do not feed them within several hours of the ride. *Grooming. Brush, comb, trim nails and bathe the pup regularly. Baths can be weekly as long as a very mild shampoo is used like Oatmeal shampoo. Wipe out ears weekly too *Veterinarians. Take the pup to the vet’s office weekly for a weigh-in and for acclimating them to that sort of place. All vaccinations and worming will be given on the schedule your foster coordinator gives you *Toys. Only beef bones, nylabones or hooves should be left in the crate with the pup. ALL other toys should be supervised. Gumabones or soft rubber/vinyl toys are not good ideas. ANY toy that provokes a possessive reaction needs to either be banned or become a crate only toy (if it is the right kind) until you have worked on the possession trading game. Be careful of toys that can be swallowed, chewed up or that could trap a leg or head. Chip bags, cereal boxes etc are very dangerous and dogs have died from getting them over their heads and suffocating. Coins, buttons, string, socks, nylons etc can also be deadly. REMEMBER if it got chewed up then you did not pick it up. These are babies who do not yet understand English Best wishes and Thank YOU! Any questions contact your foster coordinator. Appendix 1 Drugs to Avoid During Pregnancy or Nursing  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/author.cfm?cls=0&cat=1303&art=856&ath=10" Holly Frisby, DVM, MS Veterinary Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. With a few exceptions as noted below, one should avoid using all medications in pregnant and lactating (nursing) dogs. There may be instances in which a medication not recommended for use during pregnancy may need to be used to save the life of the bitch, even though it may potentially harm the fetuses. Always consult with your veterinarian before administering any drug or supplement to a pregnant or nursing dog Drug May Be Used Do Not Use Safety Studies in Dogs Not Available  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1366" Acemannan   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1367" Acepromazine   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1368" Acetylcysteine Use as an antidote, only.      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1369" Activated Charcoal x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1371" Albuterol   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1372" Allopurinol   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1373" Amikacin   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1374" Aminopenicillins (Amoxicillin, Ampicillin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1375" Aminopentamide (Centrine)     x  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1376" Amitraz (Mitaban, Preventic Collars)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1377" Amitriptyline (Elavil)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1433" Antacids (Maalox, Milk of Magnesia)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1378" Artificial Tears x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1379" Aspirin   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1380" Atropine Eye Medication x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1381" Azathioprine (Imuran)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1456" Bismuth Subsalicylate (Pepto Bismol)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1382" Buspirone (Buspar)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1383" Butorphanol (Torbutrol, Torbugesic)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1384" Carprofen (Rimadyl)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1385" Cephalosporins (Keflex, Cefa-drops)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1387" Chlorpheniramine (Chlor-Trimeton)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1388" Cimetidine (Tagamet)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1389" Cisapride (Propulsid)   x Removed from the market July 14, 2000.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1390" Clemastine (Tavist 1)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1391" Clindamycin (Antirobe)     Use with caution.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1392" Clomipramine (Clomicalm, Anafranil)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1393" Cyclosporin (Optimmune)     x  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1394" Cyproheptadine   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1395" Dextromethorphan   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1396" Diazepam (Valium)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1397" Diethylcarbamazine (Filaribits, Nemacide) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1398" Digoxin (Cardoxin)     Give only if clearly needed.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1399" Dimenhydrinate (Dramamine)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1400" Diphenhydramine (Benadryl)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1482" DMSO (Synotic)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1401" DOCP   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1404" Enalapril (Enacard, Vasotec)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1405" Enrofloxacin (Baytril)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1406" Epsiprantel (Cestex)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1407" Erythromycin   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1408" Erythropoietin (EPO, Epogen)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1409" Estrogens (ECP, DES)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1410" Etodolac (Etogesic)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1411" Extended Spectrum Penicillins (Carbenicillin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1388" Famotidine (Pepcid)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1414" Fatty acids     Not recommended for pregnant humans.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1415" Fenbendazole (Panacur) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1416" Fentanyl   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1419" Fipronil (Frontline)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1417" Fludrocortisone (Florinef)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1418" Fluoxetine (Prozac)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1420" Furosemide (Lasix)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1421" Gentamicin (Gentocin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1422" Glucocorticosteroids (Prednisone, Dexamethasone, Hydrocortisone)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1423" Glycosaminoglycans ( HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=670" Glucosamine, Chondroitin)     x  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1424" Griseofulvin (Fulvicin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1426" Hydroxyzine (Atarax)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1370" Imidacloprid (Advantage)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1427" Insulin x   Note: Diabetic dogs should not be bred.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1428" Itraconazole (Sporanox)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1429" Ivermectin (Heartgard) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1430" Kanamycin (Amforal, Kantrim)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1431" Kaolin (Kaopectate, Canine Pectate) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1432" Loperamide (Immodium)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1471" Lufenuron (Program) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1434" Mannitol   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1435" Marbofloxacin (Zeniquin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1436" Mebendazole (Telmintic)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1437" Meclofenamic Acid (Arquel)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1438" Melarsomine (Immiticide)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1439" Methimazole (Tapazole)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1440" Methionine (Methigel, Methio-Form)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1441" Metoclopramide (Reglan)     x  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1442" Metronidazole (Flagyl)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1386" Mibolerone (Cheque Drops)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1443" Milbemycin (Interceptor, Sentinel) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1444" Misoprostol (Cytotec)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1445" Mitotane (o,p-DDD, Lysodren)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1446" Natural Penicillins (Penicillin G, Crystiben, Penicillin V)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1447" Neomycin   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1449" Novobiocin (Albaplex)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1450" Omeprazole (Prilosec)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1451" Orbifloxacin (Orbax)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1452" Oxytocin (Pitocin) At delivery.      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1453" Pancreatic Enzymes (Pancrezyme, Viokase-K) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1454" Penicillinase Resistant Penicillins (Cloxacillin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1455" Pentobarbital   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1457" Permethrin (Bio Spot for Dogs, Defend, Proticall)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1458" Phenobarbital   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1459" Phenylbutazone   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1460" Phenylpropanolamine (Dexatrim)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1461" Phenytoin (Dilantin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1462" Phytonadione (Vitamin K)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1463" Piperazine (Happy Jack Kennel Wormer, Purina Liquid Wormer, Sergeants Worm Away, Pipa Tabs, Piper Worm Wormer) Other wormers are preferred.      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1472" Polysulfated Glycosaminoglycan (Adequan)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1464" Potassium Depends on type & reason for use.      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1465" Potassium Bromide   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1466" Potentiated Penicillins (Clavamox, Augmentin)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1467" Praziquantel (Droncit, Drontal, Tradewinds Tapeworm Tabs)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1468" Primidone   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1470" Progestins (Megestrol acetate, Ovaban)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1473" Psyllium (Metamucil, Vetasyl) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1474" Pyrantel Pamoate (ProWormer-2, Nemex) Do not use wormers with additional ingredients.      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1475" Pyriproxyfen (Bio Spot for Dogs)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1388" Ranitidine (Zantac)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1478" Rotenone (Goodwinol Ointment) x   Caution: Do not use on puppies, or expose puppies to this medication.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1476" Selamectin (Revolution) x      HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1479" Selegiline (Anipryl)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1480" Sucralfate     x  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1481" Sulfadimethoxine (Albon, Bactrovet)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&articleid=1469" Sulfadimethoxine & Ormetroprim (Primor)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1483" Terbutaline   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1484" Tetracyclines (Doxycycline, Oxytetracycline)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1485" Theophylline (Theo-Dur)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1486" Thiacetarsamide (Caparsolate)     Use with caution.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1487" Thyroxine (Synthroid, Soloxine) x   Note: Hypothyroid dogs should not be bred.  HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1490" Trimeprazine (Temaril-P)   x    HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&articleid=1489" Trimethoprim & Sulfadiazine (Tribrissen)   x   Copyright © 1997-2003, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reprinted from PetEducation.com.   HYPERLINK "http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&cat=1303&articleid=856"   Copyright Diane Richardson, free use as long as document is not be altered and must be printed or emailed in it’s entirety Appendix 2 AGING PUPPIES 8 - 9 weeks old. Full mouth of pointy teeth fully out of gums but the teeth still look short. Pup is fairly agile and able to get around fine. Legs look short and body looks compact. Pure bred Rottweiler pups are typically 7-18 lbs at this age with the average being 12 lbs 12 - 18 weeks old. Pup more leggy appearing. Body a bit longer looking. Coat starting to change along back to glossy adult coat. Front teeth between the canines (the incisors) start to be exchanged for adult incisors. This exchange usually runs in pairs of teeth. Pups missing (or with adult versions) 2 incisors are 12 - 14 weeks. Pups with all adult incisors even if some are not fully in are 16 - 18 weeks. Ears are often laying incorrectly during this teething spell. Purebred pups generally average around 25-50 lbs 20 – 22 weeks old. Canine teeth are exchanged for adult versions. At this age pups will either be missing puppy canines or will have double canines (adult and puppy teeth together) Possibly will have tiny nubs of adult canines. Purebred pups generally average 30 – 60 lbs 6 months old. Canine teeth are all adult versions but are not usually full size. Full size being aprox twice the height of the incisors (front teeth). Purebred pups generally average 50 – 70 lbs 7 months old. Canine teeth are totally in. Full size. Molars are being exchanged for adult teeth. 8 - 10 months old. Molars are fully in all the way to the back of the jaw. Intact males still have fur on the bottom of their testicles. Unspayed females generally come into season now. Purebred pups generally average 65 – 90 lbs Copyright Diane Richardson, free use as long as document is not be altered and must be printed or emailed in it’s entirety Appendix 3 Teaching Bite Inhibition -- Relief from Puppy Mouthing By Ian Dunbar © Rather than "No bite," I strongly, strongly, strongly urge you to teach your puppy bite inhibition instead. Bite inhibition is a "soft mouth." It teaches the pup how to use his mouth gently. Does this mean that the pup will forever be mouthing you? No, not at all. Actually, regardless of the method used, puppies generally grow out of mouthing behavior after a few months. So why should you teach bite inhibition? Because dogs have one defense: their teeth. Every dog can bite. If frightened enough or in pain or threatened, your dog *will* bite. That doesn't in any way make him a "bad" dog. It makes him a dog. It's your responsibility, therefore, to teach your dog that human skin is incredibly fragile. If you teach your dog bite inhibition that training will carry over even if he is later in a position where he feels forced to bite. A story... Ian Dunbar tells a story of a bite incident he had to assess. A Golden Retriever therapy dog was leaving a nursing home and his tail was accidentally shut in a car door. The owner went to help, and the dog delivered four Level Four bites before she could react. FYI, a standard scale has been developed to judge the severity of dog bites, based on damage inflicted. The scale is: Level One: Bark, lunge, no teeth on skin. Level Two: Teeth touched skin, no puncture. Level Three: 1-4 holes from a single bite. All holes less than half the length of a single canine tooth. Level Four: Single bite, deep puncture (up to one and a half times the depth of a single canine tooth), wound goes black within 24 hours. Level Five: Multiple bite attack or multiple attack incidents. Level Six: Missing large portions of flesh. Technically, the woman received a Level Five bite from a long-time therapy dog. Dr. Dunbar wasn't the least bit surprised by the bites. I mean, the dog got his tail shut in a car door! Of course he bit! What shocked Dr. Dunbar was that a dog with no bite inhibition was being used as a therapy dog. "But he's never bitten before." Of course not. And barring an accident like that, he probably never would have. But an accident is just that. An accident. Unpredicted. What if it had happened in the nursing home? So how do you teach bite inhibition? Again from Dr. Dunbar, there are four stages of bite inhibition. The first two stages involve decreasing the force in the bites. The second two stages involve decreasing the frequency of the bites. The training *must* be done in that order. If you decrease the frequency first, the dog won't learn to soften his bite. The stages: 1. No painful bites. 90% of puppies will stop if you give a high-pitched squeal or yelp. If they stop, praise and reinforce by continuing the game. The other 10% and puppies who are tired or overstimulated will escalate their behavior instead of stopping. This requires you to confine the puppy or end the game. Remove all attention. It does *not* require any added aversive -- yelling, popping the nose or under the chin, shoving your hand down his throat, or spraying with water. If you end the game, you need to be able to get away from the puppy with as little fuss or attention as possible. Even negative attention is attention. It's often helpful to have the puppy tethered, so you can simply move back out of his reach. Or, have him in a confined area and simply stand up and move past a boundary. Because the getting up and moving is tough to do at the instant the undesired behavior occurs, consider using a hand signal that will always mean "You're a jerk. Fun's over." Use it consistently when poor behavior occurs and you're going to withdraw attention. I am well aware that puppy teeth hurt, and that this step can be overwhelming. Do it when you can, and at other times redirect, redirect, redirect. Puppy mouthing is a 100% natural dog behavior. It's not dominant. It's not meanness. It's a puppy being a puppy. When it's too much either redirect or end the game. Adversives are confusing, unfair, and unnecessary. 2. Eliminate all pressure. You want to gradually shape the dog to "gum you to death." Service dog trainers do this routinely, because service dogs often have to use their mouths to manipulate human limbs. Basically, you do this gradually. Set a limit of how hard the dog can bite. If he bites harder, yelp. Gradually set your limit for softer and softer bites. Remember to do this gradually. A big jump in criteria is confusing and frustrating to the dog. 3. When I say stop, you stop. Teach cues for "Take It," "Leave It," and "Drop It." You need to be able to both start and stop the game on your terms. 4. You may never touch a human with your muzzle unless invited. Basically, this is just taking stage three to complete stimulus control. None of these stages require anything more aversive than time outs or withdrawal of attention. When teaching these behaviors, put your hands in your dog's mouth all the time. Get him used to your being there. Make sure you can open his mouth and examine his teeth -- the vet is going to do that, and you should prepare your dog. Play mouth games. Teach your dog never to touch an object in your hand unless invited. Make sure he knows when he *is* invited, he is never to bite both the toy and your hand at the same time. Appendix 4 Homemade Diet Short term diet for ill or malnourished dogs and puppies who do not want to eat *1 lb of turkey or chicken burger one 12-16 oz package of shredded mozzarella cheese one egg one cup cooked oatmeal (or 1 cup cooked rice but the oatmeal is better)   warm so that the cheese starts to melt but not hot enough to burn the tongue Long term diet for dogs and puppies Prepared commercial diets such as Bravo  HYPERLINK "http://www.bravorawdiet.com" http://www.bravorawdiet.com , Oma’s Pride  HYPERLINK "http://www.omaspride.com" http://www.omaspride.com or Halshans are very suitable for long term use See also the book: “Raw Dog Food” by Carina MacDonald available from  HYPERLINK "http://www.dogwise.com" www.dogwise.com and the booklet “Bravo Beginnings” available through Bravo raw diets (talks about general raw feeding in addition using their own brand) RULES OF USE FOR THIS BOOKLET This booklet may be given to other rescue people to use as well, BUT it is copyright protected and can ONLY be printed in it's entirety. No excerpts may be printed or "borrowed" from it for use in other publications or email lists etc.. 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