ࡱ>  bjbj££ >j,,$$%%%4R%R%R%h%F&R%<&&:'''555$< !%5L4"n4055!$$''H ===5j$'$l'=5==#$,+'@l\"6*NФ0:27v++%?=555!!=5555555555555555, L#: Mobile Home Belly Retrofit Weatherization Installer/Technician Mobile Homes Key Terminology Belly blow Deferral of services Fill tube House wrap Mobile home belly Mobile Home Energy Audit (MHEA) Rim joist Vapor permeable Vapor retarder Section Transition Learning Objectives (Slide #2) By attending this session, participants will become aware of: The benefits of insulating the belly cavity. Important factors to consider before insulating. Mobile home floor components. Belly preparation methods. Specialized tools and materials for sealing the belly cavity. Methods for gaining access to the belly cavity. Insulation methods and techniques. Mobile Home Belly Components (Slide #3) Photo shows typical construction details of a floor system, more commonly known as the mobile home belly. The belly contains the insulation, duct system, and plumbing, and is enclosed by the sub- and finished floor and rodent barrier underneath. Re-Insulating the Belly Cavity (Slide #4) Insulation increases thermal performance. Big air leakage reductions are possible. Occupant comfort is enhanced. Often referred to as a belly blow, re-insulating floor cavities with blown-in insulation on pre-1976 mobile homes is cost-effective Mobile Home Energy Audit (MHEA). A complete belly retrofit combines the benefits of duct sealing, air sealing, and insulation of the belly cavity. In a Nutshell (Slide #5) Advances in mobile home weatherization technology and training methods have significantly enhanced the ability to provide cost-effective mobile home belly retrofits. Innovations in materials and techniques that started at the grassroots level have been perfected, researched, and adopted through consensus by the national Weatherization network. A belly blow involves: Sealing and repairing the duct system. Repairing minor plumbing leaks. Repairing, sealing, and reinforcing the rodent barrier. Sealing penetrations from the belly to the conditioned space. Locating combustion air inlets ( Look for small, open-ended metal ducts that penetrate the rodent barrier. These are likely associated with a combustion air inlet for an oil furnace. Accessing and drilling the rim joist. Insulating the belly with loose-fill insulation. Real Mobile Home World (Slide #6) Photo of workers underneath a mobile home. Although the work is often difficult and technically challenging, the benefits of insulating the belly cavity are great. Belly or Not #1 (Slide #7) Before deciding on a strategy, determine whether a belly retrofit is even possible. Factors to consider: Insufficient clearance. Significant plumbing leaks. Structural problems. Standing water or open sewage. Major obstructions. Electrical hazards. Belly or Not #2 (Slide #8) Photos of standing water problems and insufficient clearance. These kinds of issues would preclude insulating the belly. Photo of Unsafe Situations (Slide #9) These types of conditions are grounds for deferral of services if the safety issues cannot be resolved within the budget. Are there significant electrical or other safety hazards that would preclude performing a belly retrofit? Health and safety funds may be used to correct the problems but must be accomplished within reason. They should be limited to resolving minor problems such as plumbing leaks, minor drainage issues, and floor repair. Big problems such as raw sewage, major structural deficiencies, or significant ponding of water underneath the home should be considered outside the scope of the program. Considerations Before Insulating (Slide #10) The auditor should note: Duct location and condition. Return air system. Joist spacing and direction. How much belly repair is required. Minor repairable plumbing leaks. Air leakage penetrations. Mobile Home Belly Components (Slide #11) Photo of a mobile home belly in the factory. Note the rodent barrier and crosswise joist direction. Joist Direction (Slide #12) Duct risers offer clues about the direction of the floor joists. Hint: Remove a duct register and determine if there are duct boots as pictured on the lower right. If duct boots exist, then the duct itself is fastened to the bottom of the floor joist and the joists themselves run crosswise. Belly Prep Overview (Slide #13) Install a ground vapor retarder. Vent the clothes dryer to daylight. Seal ducts. Protect water lines. Seal all penetrations to the living space. Repair (or replace) the rodent barrier. Reinforce the belly. Drill holes in the band joist or access from underneath. Re-Route Dryer Vent to Outside! (Slide #14) Plan to re-route the dryer vent to the outside! Install Ground Vapor Retarder (Slide #15) Use 6-mil sheet plastic and cover the entire crawl space. The purpose of the vapor retarder is to prevent ground moisture vapor from entering the belly cavity. Its a good idea to do this before performing any work under the home to make it more comfortable for workers. Photo of a Duct Repair (Slide #16) Seal the duct, and then patch the belly board. Belly Prep (Slide #17) Photos of belly preparation measures. Provide support for ducts and water pipes. In cold climates, it is important to position water supply lines as close to the floor as possible to protect them from freezing. Belly Prep % Sealing Materials #1 (Slide #18) Selected patching materials: House wrap ( for covering large sections of belly. Flexmend Belly Patch ( for covering small to medium-sized holes. Foil-backed insulation board ( for covering medium-sized holes. Lathe strips ( for reinforcing the belly. Drywall screws with deck washers ( for attaching lathe strips and insulation to the floor framing. Aluminum coil stock ( for general sealing. Foam sealant ( for sealing small holes around plumbing or electrical penetrations. Bubble foil ( for sealing small holes around plumbing or electrical penetrations. Spray adhesive ( for gluing sheet materials to the existing rodent barrier. Stitch and regular staples ( for attaching sheet materials to the existing rodent barrier. Show and tell: Belly patch materials Belly Prep % Sealing Materials #2 (Slide #19) Photos of belly repair activities. Flexible sheet materials may be used to repair small holes or shore up weak areas. Belly Prep % Sealing Materials #3 (Slide #20) Photos of belly reinforcement methods. Replace and/or reinforce belly. Fasten lathe and insulation board to the bottom of floor joists with screws. Replacing the Rodent Barrier (Slide #21) Photo of Severely Damaged Rodent Barrier. Consider replacing the entire rodent barrier with a tough vapor permeable house wrap such as Typar. Q. If the duct leaks, where does the warm air go? A. Outside. Replacing the Rodent Barrier (Slide #22) Remove the remains of the old rodent barrier and fiberglass batt insulation. Fasten house wrap between the center I-beams with staples along the length of the home. Fit sheeting around penetrations and seal. Repeat the process for each edge section. Reinforce with lathe strips screwed to the bottom of the floor joists. Belly Prep Sealing #1 (Slide #23) Photos of detailed air sealing and belly reinforcement. Be sure to seal all penetrations from the living space and through the rodent barrier to prevent spillage of the insulation product while blowing. Attention to detail is extremely important here, as shown in the next four slides. Neglecting even small penetrations may result in major insulation spills or collapse of belly sections. The resulting clean-up can be time-consuming and costly. Belly Prep Sealing #2 (Slide #24) Photos of combustion air inlets. Take care not to seal any combustion air inlets. Belly Prep Sealing #3 (Slide #25) Photos of interior air sealing. Seal plumbing penetrations from the top and from the belly cavity. Belly Prep Sealing #4 (Slide #26) Photos of detailed air sealing. Seal plumbing penetrations and fuel line penetrations to furnace cabinet. Belly Prep Sealing #5 (Slide #27) Photos of detailed interior air sealing. Seal around: Dryer vents. Sink cabinets. Built-in dressers. Hot water tank closets. Insulating the Belly (Slide #28) What you need: A multi-fiber, high-capacity blowing machine. 200 feet of insulation hose in a variety of diameters. 70 feet of low grade 2 PVC pipe sections. Cellulose or fiberglass. 2 wood plugs (rim joist). 2 wood boring bit (rim joist). Duct tape. Scrap fiberglass. Directional nozzle (belly method). Show and tell: Tools and sample materials. Rim Joist Method % Access (Slide #29) Photos of access points. Remove skirting to gain access to the crawl space. Remove a section of siding to expose the rim joist. Rim Joist Method (Slide #30) Photos of drilling and insulating the belly. Determine joist direction to drill either the ends or the side. Use a heavy-duty half-inch drill with a 2 inch wood boring bit. With a crosswise floor joist configuration the ducts are hung underneath the floor joists as shown. When blowing from the side, be sure the duct & plumbing is up against the underside of the floor joists. Drill the band joist along one side, slide the fill tube in until it hits the opposite band joist. Back the fill tube out roughly half the distance between the band joist and far I-beam. Time the blow until the joist cavity starts to pack. Pull the tube back to just inside the I-beam. Blow for same amount of time and fill the tube to just inside near I-beam. Blow same amount of time and pull the tube to roughly half the distance between near frame rail & drilled band joist, Pack this cavity. This method packs both outer bays and leaves the plumbing and heat duct above the insulation. Fill Tube Basics #1 (Slide #31) The fill tube is an important tool for blowing enclosed cavities such as mobile home bellies or roof cavities. Made of PVC, a fill tube serves as a rigid extension to the standard flexible insulation hose. Available in 8-foot lengths, fill tubes can be joined to form extensions for whatever length you need to fill a cavity. A 60-foot-long mobile home with lengthwise joist cavities would require eight sections of tubing. The best choice for tubing is 2-inch gray PVC pipe rather than white PVC. Gray PVC is used for residential central vacuum systems. It is cheaper that white PVC and creates much less static electricity. Show and tell: Fill tube. Fill Tube Basics #2 (Slide #32) Photos of fill tube assembly. Fit the flexible insulation hose into the bell-shaped end of the fill tube and duct tape the joint. Fill Tube Basics #3 (Slide #33) Photos of fill tube assembly. Cut a taper on the end of the tube to get past obstructions. Rim Joist Method % Blowing the Belly #1 (Slide #34) Illustrations showing an in-progress belly blow. Push the insulation fill tube all the way to the end of the cavity and retrieve the tube as insulation fills the cavity. Repeat for all cavities. In a lengthwise belly blow, avoid the cavity that contains the main duct and water pipes. Rim Joist Method % Blowing the Belly #2 (Slide #35) Photos showing an in-progress belly blow. Photo on the left shows a belly being blown from the end. Multiple fill tube sections are necessary to reach the opposite end of the home. Photo on the right shows a belly being blown from the side of the home. One 12-foot section of fill tube is required. Insulation Coverage Charts (Slide #36) Note the weight differences between cellulose and fiberglass compared to the R-value for each one. The lighter weight of blown fiberglass makes it the insulation of choice for mobile home belly cavities. Show and tell: Insulation samples and insulation packaging. Note weight difference between cellulose and fiberglass for the same R-value. Insulation Comparison (Slide #37) Blown fiberglass is preferred in mobile home applications because it has a lower weight-to-volume ratio and it retains less water. This is especially critical in mobile home bellies where a plumbing leak can rapidly soak into large portions of installed cellulose. This may lead to a collapse of large sections of the belly. Insulation Blowing Tips (Slide #38) Initially adjust your blowing machine settings at high-air and low-material feed. Gradually increase material feed to maximize production while minimizing clogs. Hose transitions should be gradual. Use at least 200 feet of hose for good maneuverability while working. Have someone on the crew continually check inside and underneath the home for spills. Insulation Machine Settings (Slide #39) Photos of insulation machine settings. Open the product gate for optimal material feed and adjust the air pressure to the optimal flow. When blowing bellies or roof cavities, dont dense pack the product, which could cause the rodent barrier or ceiling to bulge or tear. An insulation density of 1.6 to 2 pounds per cubic foot is fine. Through the Belly Method #1 (Slide #40) Photo of an alternate way to access the belly cavity. Another option is to insulate the belly cavity from underneath. Cutting a series of holes in the rodent barrier for insulation eliminates the need for removing siding and drilling the rim joist. Through the Belly Method #2 (Slide #41) Cut three small square or triangular holes in each joist cavity at the outriggers on each side and in the center between the I-beams. Insert the hose and blow in insulation. At the outriggers, center the hole between the outer rim joist and I-beam and blow in each direction until full. This method works best on crosswise joist configurations or where siding cannot be neatly removed to expose the rim joist. The disadvantage is that you are on your back. Overall Benefits (Slide #42) Increased comfort. Significant heat loss reductions through reduced air leakage and improved R-value. Blower door reductions of 25% to 50% are not uncommon. Increased seasonal heating efficiency due to duct system improvements. Clients love it. Case Study: Mineral Springs, PA (Slide #43) This case study demonstrates some of the costs and benefits of a complete belly retrofit. The home was occupied by an elderly man with serious medical problems. The home was in bad shape with major duct and air leakage problems. The home was located over a cellar with serious moisture problems. The belly insulation and rodent barrier were deteriorated beyond repair. The floors were buckled and soft in multiple locations due to water damage. The weatherization crew spent a week fixing drainage problems, replacing floor sections, replacing deteriorated windows and doors, and doing a complete belly retrofit, which included duct repair, plumbing repair, and new insulation. Costs associated with solving moisture and drainage problems were well within reason in this case. Attempting to fix serious problems such as standing water or major structural damage may have been outside of the scope of weatherization work. The work resulted in a home that was safe, much more energy efficient, and comfortable. (The cost summary below covers only that portion related to the belly retrofit.) Belly retrofit included a complete rodent barrier replacement, air sealing, duct sealing, and insulation. 42 person hours (crew of three). $500 in material. $2,600 in total cost. 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Client was happy. Summary (Slide #44) Re-insulating the belly cavity can result in huge energy savings, is cost-effective, and greatly improves comfort. Consider moisture issues and the condition of the floor and rodent barrier before insulating the belly. Prepare by sealing penetrations to the living space and repairing the rodent barrier. Access methods depend on joist configuration. Blown-in fiberglass is recommended because it is lighter than cellulose and wont absorb water. Weatherization methods developed over the years help technicians overcome hurdles that were once thought impossible. Attention to detail avoids problems. Having the right tools and materials on hand helps technicians deal with a variety of special circumstances.       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