ࡱ> e bjbjŚ 4-f-fܞ  ;;;;;OOO8tO-/!!!!!C"C"C".......$03^.;$C"C"$$.;;!!4.+++$:;!;!.+$.++--! 6n>$-..0-/- 4Z$: 4- 4;-C"Z"@+"4#C"C"C"..*TC"C"C"-/$$$$ 4C"C"C"C"C"C"C"C"C" : Troubleshooting Reference One of the primary responsibilities of the Maintenance Department is to maintain and repair equipment. Although not intended to replace the manufacturer's manuals for every piece of equipment, this section of the manual is to be used as a quick reference for troubleshooting. GAS RANGE TOP BURNER ASSEMBLIES PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1.) Burners wont lighta) Pilot flameout b) Burner not properly positioned c) Flash tube out of place d) Burner adjustment low e) Gas turned off f) Orifice/burner holes clogged 2) Pilot flame out and wont stay lita) Pilot flames adjusted too low b)Too much burner air, blocking pilot out pilot out c) Pilot orifice hole blocked d)Pilot orifice too high e) Gas turned off 3) Yellow burner flamea) Air shutter not open enough b) Too much gas to burner c) Burner not lined up properly with orifice 4) Red burner flamea) Too much gas b) Draft in room 5) Flame blows away from portsa) Too much gas to burner b) Too much air to burner c) Draft in room 6) Flame flashes back into mixer heada) Air and gas mixture adjust b) Gas leak at orafice or valve7) Thermal eye burning fooda) Bypass flame set too high b) Pan not making good contact with sensing element c) Sensing element out of calibration d) Flame size not properly adjusted for size of pan e) Damaged or defective capillary tube 8) Thermal eye not maintaining high enough flamea) Sensing element out of calibration calibration b) Burner orifice clogged c) Defective control 9) Gas smells in kitchena) Leak in pipe joints b) Too much gas to burners c) Valve leaking. Knob binding against control panel and holding valve stem out  GAS RANGE EQUIPPED WITH SAFETY VALVES PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Oven burner flame goes out a) It is normal for oven burner flame to go out at any dial setting after oven reaches temperature. Burners should relight when temperature goes below dial setting. 2) Pilot flame goes out on oven burner a) Too much air going into burner I causing flame to lift and blow out pilot. b) Burner over gassed blowing out pilot flame. c) Pilot control valve not operating properly. d) Oven in "chimney" or draft conditions. Oven cabinet should be completely closed. e) Pilot set too low. a) Cut down on air by moving a shutter. b) Adjust orifice. c) d) e) Adjust pilot higher. 3) Oven too hota) Standby pilot set too high preventing burner from cycling off. b) Burner overgassed. c) Thermostatic valve dirty. d) Heat control sensing bulb broken or leaking. a) b) Cut down at orafice. c) Recalibrate heat control. d)4) Baking takes too longa) Oven not preheated properly. Should be preheated 25 to 50 degrees higher than baking temperature and turned back when food is placed in oven. b) Burner overgassed causing excessive preheat time. c) Heat control out of calibration. a) Explain to user. b) Adjust burner orifice hood. c) Adjust control calibration. 5) Cakes burn on bottom a) Burner overgassed. b) Improper pan; sides of pan too high. Thin aluminum or other bright pan is best. bright pan is best. c) Oven not preheated properly. I Should be preheated 25 to 50degrees higher than baking temperature and turned back when food is placed in oven. d) Pans not properly located in oven. Center of oven is best for most baking. See Use and Care Manual. a) Adjust burner orifice hood. b) Explain to user. c) Explain to user. d) Explain to user. 6) Oven will not turn on manually.a) Pilot light out b) Dirty or defective pilot control valve c) Dirty or defective thermostat valve a) Refer to item 1. b) Clean or replace valve c) Clean or replace7) Oven sweats or window fogs upa) Oven not preheated for minute with door open to displace natural humidity b) Oven door opened too often while baking a) Explain to user b) Explain to user 8) Burners won't lighta) Pilot flame out b) Pilot flame too low c) Burner out of position d) Flash tube out of position e) Burner undergassed ) f) Gas off a) b) Adjust pilot c) Adjust burner d) Adjust flash tube e) f) 9) Pilot flameout and won't stay lit a) Pilot flames adjusted too low b) Too much burner air blowing pilot out c) Pilot orifice hole stopped up d) Pilot orifice too high e) Range subjected to unusual drafting a) b) c) d) e)10) Yellow burner flamea) Burner air shutter not open enough b) Too much gas to burner c) Burner not lined up properly with orifice a) Adjust b) Adjust c) 11) Red burner flamea) Too much gas b) Too much draft. a) b) b)12) Flame blows awaya) Too much gas to burner b) Too much air to burner c) Draft in room a) b) c)13) Flame flashes back into mixer heada) Too much air in proportion to gas b) Gas leak at orifice or valve a) b)14) Gas smells in kitchena) Leak in pipe joints b) Too much gas in burners c) Valve leaking a) b) c)15) Grates rocka) b) Top may not be down securely causing warped condition a) Rotate grates one-half turn b) GAS RANGE EQUIPPED WITH FLAME SWITCH PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Burner cannot be turned off by thermostat.a) Disconnect plug from wall socket. If burner remains on, replace the solenoid valve. b) If burner goes off when plug is disconnected, inspect wiring and terminals for short. c) If no short is evident, turn calibration screw clockwise several turns. This will shut off gas if the thermostat is misscalibrated. Then, recalibrate thermostat. 2) Bake burner cannot be turned on by thermostat. a) Be sure the electric supply cord is I plugged in and the electric power is ON. b) Check to see if the bake pilot is ignited and that its flame is clear and rigid. The flame should flow around the capillary of the flame stitch. c) If the burner does not come on, inspect the wiring for loose or faulty connections. d) If the burner still fails to turn on, turn thermostat to 400oF. Using a jumper wire, connect across the flame switch terminals. If, at this point, the burner turns on, the flame switch is defective and must be replaced. e) If the above action does not correct the problem, then, using another jumper wire, connect across terminals 1 an 2 on the thermostat with first jumper still connected across flame switch terminals. If the burner comes on, remove the jumper wire from across the flame switch terminals. If burner stays on, the thermostat should be replaced. f) If burner does not come on after the above procedure has been followed, the solenoid valve is defective and must be replaced. 3) Broil burner will not come on when the thermostat is turned to BROIL. a) Check to see if the aerated pilot is ignited and that it has a clear hard flame about 1/2" in length which reaches above the pilot shield. The flame should flow around the capillary of the flame switch. b) If aerated pilot is not functioning properly as described above, the following checks and adjustments should be made: Check pilot adjusting screw to make sure adjustment is all the way open. Check orifice for correct size. Use.010 for natural gas and .005 for LP gas. If size is correct, check for foreign material in orifice. c) Check air supply tube for foreign material or any kink or restriction. Check to make sure tube has not been loosened from mounting bracket and mislocated. Check fittings to make sure they are tight. d) Check vents for restriction. All vent areas must be open and operating in order for aerated pilot to operate properly 4) Bake burner works, but BROIL burner cannot be turned on by thermostat. a) If aerated pilot is lit and functioning properly, check the external BROIL select switch mounted on the thermostat for loose connections. Be sure the BROIL select cam is depressing the switch push button. b) If the aerated pilot and the broil select switch are functioning properly, turn the thermostat to BROIL position and connect jumper across the flame switch terminals. c) If the broiler comes on at this point, the flame switch is defective and must be replaced. d) If the above action does not correct the problem, then, using another jumper, connect terminals. Leave jumper connected across broil burner flame switch terminals. If the broil burner comes on, remove jumper from across flame switch terminals. If burner stays on, flame switch is functioning. Replace the BROIL select and bracket assembly. e) If the above action does not correct the problem, connect 11 5V line to the solenoid valve which will click open. 5) Solenoid valve chatters when cycling at a set temperature.a) When the solenoid valve clicks "on and off" several times within a second at the beginning of every cycle, the valve IS NOT at fault. a) This condition is caused by a faulty switch located inside the thermostat. The thermostat must be replaced. 6) Solenoid valve hums when energized. a) Cycle the valve several times by turning the thermostat on and off. If buzzing continues after cycling, the valve must be replaced. 7) Solenoid valve leaks a) First, check for proper tubing connections and, if necessary, tighten fittings. If valve continues to leak, replace valve and fittings. 8) Solenoid clicks when going ON and OFF.a) It must be understood that an intermittent clicking sound is normal for a solenoid type control system. It indicates that the system is operating properly. 9) Electric thermostat is out of calibration. a) Starting from the "OFF" position, set thermostat dial to 350F marking. Using a thermometer or temperature indicating device, note actual oven temperature after allowing sufficient time for oven to reach set temperature. If the actual average temperature differs more than 10 from the dial setting, the thermostat should be recalibrated. b) Keep thermostat set at 350F and carefully remove dial so as not to change position of shaft. Hold shaft steady and insert screwdriver down center of shaft. Turn screws COUNTER CLOCKWISE to INCREASE oven temperature. turn screws CLOCKWISE to DECREASE oven temperature. Eachdegree of rotation on the calibrationscrew is approximately one degreechange. 10) Upper oven broil burner pilot goes out. a) Check adjusting screw to see if it is open enough to provide maximum flame. This applies to upper broil I pilot only. b) Check air supply tube for proper location approximately 1/2" to 5/8" from the oven burner box bottom. c) Check air supply for restrictions. d) Check for proper size pilot orifice. (.010 for natural gas; .005 for LP gas) e) Check to make sure proper oven bake burner is not over gassed. 11) Oven will not turn ON manually.a) Clock not set for manual operation. b) Pilot light out. c) Defective flame switch. d) Defective thermostat. e) Defective solenoid valve. f) Electric power off. f) Check oven for restriction in venting passages. 12) Oven sweats or window fogs up. a) Oven not preheated for minute with door open to dispel natural humidity. b) Oven door opened while baking. c) Water vapor may be coming from food being baked if high water content.  GAS OVENS PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Pilot or oven burner flame goes out.a) Burner overgassed causing pilot light to go out. b) Oven burner flame playing directly on pilot tip. c) Loose connection in pilot supply d) Pilot flame out of adjustment. e) Defective thermostat. f) Defective automatic oven gas control. a) Adjust gas orifice to burner. b) Adjust pilot tip to about 3/8 below oven burner port. c) Tighten connection I line. d) Adjust e) Replace thermostat f) Replace automatic oven gas control 2) Oven too hot a) Standby pilot set too high b) Burner overgassed c) Heat control out of calibration d) Thermostatic valve dirty e) Heat control sensing bulb broken or leaking a) Adjust so yellow tip is removed b) Cut down on orifice c) Recalibrate heat control d) Clean thermostatic valve e) Replace heat control sensing bulb 3) Baking takes too longa) Oven not preheated properly b) Burner undergassed causing excessive preheat time c) Heat control out of calibrationa) Explain to user that oven should be preheated 8 to 10 minutes b) Adjust orifice c) Recalibrate heat control 4) Oven burner flashes and burns in venturi a) Air shutter open too widea) Adjust air shutter 5) Cakes burn on bottom or uneven baking a) Improper pan; sides too high a) Explain to user. Thin aluminum or other bright pan is best to use. 6) Oven will not turn on manually a) Pilot light out b) Dirty or defective pilot control valve c) Dirty or defective thermostat valvea) See Pilot Adjustment b) Clean & check. Replace if defective. c) Clean &check. Replace if defective. 7) Oven sweats or window fogs up. a) Oven not preheated for minute with door open to dispel natural humidity. b) Oven door opened too much while bakinga) Explain to user b) Explain to user. 8) Hot oven door or handlea) May not be a defect b) Broiler door not properly closed or not sealing at the top.a) Check. Explain to user that normal allowable oven door temperature is well above room temperature. b) Check door for alignment. Check seal and replace if necessary. 9) Rotisserie won't operatea) Fuse burned out or not plugged in. b) Loose wiring connection c) Defective switch d) Motor burned outa) Check. Replace if burned out. b) Tighten wiring connection c) Check and replace if defective d) Check and replace if motor burned out 10) Oven door not sealing properlya) Door warped or bent through mishandling a) Straighten as explained in Service Section 11) Oven door rubs at bottoma) Door slightly out of alignmenta) Realign as explained in Service Section 12) Oven shocks when touched a) Oven not grounded properly b) Insulated, worn, or burned off wire c) Electrical component defectivea) Check and make sure grounded b) Check and replace if defective wire c) Check and replace if defective 13) Flame floats away from burnera) Orifice not pointing directly into burner throat b) Open air shutter a) Remove burner and align orifice b) Close air shutter  ELECTRIC RANGE PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Surface element will not heata) Element bad b) If plugin type, could be bad plug-in block c) Loose wire connection or selector switch bad d) Power off a) Check electrical connection b) Replace plugin block c) Replace selector switch d)2) Bake/broil element will not heata) Elements bad not heat b) Loose wire connection c) Thermostat stuck in cutout position d) Selector switch bad e) Power off a) Replace elements b) Check electrical connections c) Adjust or replace selector switch d) Check & replace if defective e)3) Oven too hot/cold a) Thermostat probe against side of unit b) Thermostat out of adjustment c) Thermostat bad a) Suspend probe b) Calibrate thermostat or replace c) Check thermostat & replace if defective 4) Automatic oven timer will not worka) Bad timer motor b) Stuck contact points a) Replace timer motor b) Unstick & clean contact points 5) Will not selfcleana) Door latch switch b) Selfcleaning sensor a) Check electrical connections. Replace door latch switch if defective b) Selfcleaning sensor DISHWASHER PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1 ) Dishwasher will not run at alla) Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker b) No power to dishwasher. c) Inoperative timer. d) Inoperative motor. e) Inoperative door latch switch. f) Timer switch or relay not energized. g) Open circuit in wiring harness. a) Replace fuse or reset breaker. b) Check for power to outlet or box to service. c) Check out timer. If faulty, replace. d) Check out motor for operation. Spin motor to free if stuck. e) Check door adjustment and continuity through switch. Repair. f) Try switch or relay for action. Replace if defective. g) Check wiring. Insure all terminals are correct. Check for and correct any loose heads. 2) Dishwasher blows fuse or trips breaker.a) Short circuit or ground in control wiring b) Motor overloaded. c) Grounded motor. d) Short circuit in wiring to dishwasher. e) Fuse or breaker too small. f) Other appliances on circuit may overload line.a) Check wiring at service connection at dishwasher. b) Check for blockage or jamming of pump impeller. c) Replace. d) Inspect circuit and take proper action e) Recommend 15 amp breaker. f) Check. If necessary, run separate circuit to dishwasher. 3) Dishes not drying.a) Improper loading. b) Low water temperature. c) Timer contacts not closing during heat cycle d) Inoperative heating element. e) Incomplete drain out. f) Impatient user. g) Dishes set in dishwasher too longa) Instruct user to not overload dishes. This prevents proper air circulation. b) Water in dishwasher should be 140F to 160F. Adjust water heater. c) Check timer and taken proper action d) Check element and replace if burned out. Check wiring to element and terminals. e) See "Water Does Not Drain Out" problem. f) Instruct user to wait until end of cycle. g) Instruct user to not allow dishes to sit in dishwasher too long. 4) Dishwasher leaks.a) Loose plumbing connection. b) Water level high. c) Pump leakage. d) Fill tube overspray or splash. e) Water inlet air gap. f) Split hose or loose hose clamps. g) Excessive foaming. h) Improper installation. i) Pump loose or not properly sealed. j) Poor seal between pump and tub. k) Tub leaks, rusted. l) Heating element fasteners. m) Mispositioned vent gasket or baffle. n) Worn or damaged door gasketa) Check all connections and hoses. Tighten or repair. b) Insure water level is up to heating element. Insure proper action of float switch. Insure utensils are not holding float switch down. c) Replace seal assembly if necessary. Inspect pump housing for cracks. Repair or replace. d) Check fill tube for misalignment, burrs, or hard water deposits. e) Check gasket around air gap. Check mounting screw. f) Thoroughly check hoses and clamps. Repair or replace. g) Improper detergent or too much detergent in a soft water area. h) Level dishwasher. i) Reposition pump on gasket. Tighten mechanical connectors. j) Readjust mounting screws or mechanical connections and gasket. Remove assembly and clean gasket and rim. Replace. k) Repair with epoxy patch kit. Replace if necessary. 1) Tighten nuts. Replace seal washers. m) Check and correct if a problem. n) Check for proper operation.4) Dishwasher leaks (Continued) p) Drain valve leaks. q) Drain valve sticks open. r) Inoperative drain solenoid. s) Broken distributor arm bearing. t) Distributor arm seal out of position. u) Distorted tub or tank p) Check drain ring for damage or foreign matter. Clean and/or replace. q) Clean line of foreign matter from plug. Clean inside of drain line opening. r) Confirm and replace. s) Replace bearing. t) Reinstall seal or replace. u) Dishwasher pushed into too small of an opening or one which is out of "square". Modify opening.5) Little or no water I enters dishwasher. a) Water supply shut off. b) Faulty connection or open circuit in wiring. c) Timer not operating. d) Solenoid or fill valve not operating. e) Water supply restricted. f) Excessive water pressure. g) Confirm. Replace if faulty. h) Defective or wrong size of flow washer.a) Open valves. b) Check for power to solenoid, ohm. Check wiring. c) Check timer. Replace if faulty. d) Check leads and operation. Rebuild if faulty. e) Check for kinks and foreign material in line. Also check for clogged strainer at inlet valve. f) Confirm. Take necessary action. g) Confirm. Replace if faulty. h) Check and if necessary install correct washer. 6) Too much water in dishwasher.a) Timer stuck. b) Inoperative drain valve c) Pressure switch faulty. d) Obstruction in pump. e) Inlet valve diaphragm hung up. f) Malfunction of fill valve. g) Incorrect flow washer. h) Incomplete drainout.a) Check timer and timer motor. Replace if necessary. b) Check and repair. c) Check and replace if faulty. d) Check and clean. e) Check and clean surface. f) Check solenoid continuity, timer function or foreign material atplunger. Rebuild or replace. g) Check and install correct washer. h) See Below7) Water does not drain out or only partially drains. a) Blocked or inoperative pump. b) Motor is not reversing c) Kinked drain line or partially blocked disposal connection. Hose may not be long enough. d) Inoperative drain valve. e) Faulty timer operation. f) Clogged drain screen. g) Faulty connection or broken wire. h) Broken impeller in pump.a) Clean obstruction. Replace pump if bad. b) Check timer switching. (Pump should run clockwise during pumpout.) If timer is faulty, replace. c) Straighten out. Clean or replace. d) Check drain valve or solenoid. Repair or replace. e) Check timer. Replace if faulty. f) Clean or replace screen. g) Check and repair. h) Rebuild or replace pump.8) Dishwasher stops during cycle or does not make complete cyclea) Open circuit. b) No power to inoperative components. c) Timer operating erratically or improperly. d) Loose or faulty leads. e) Inoperative motor overload. f) Door switch opening circuit. g) Defective components.a) Check for power. b) Check for power leading to components. c) Check timer and timer motor operation against sequence chart on wiring diagram. Replace if faulty. d) Repair or replace. e) Check and correct problem. f) Adjust switch. Replace if defective. g) Check operation of affected components. Repair or replace. 9) Dishwasher runs with controls in "OFF"position. a) Timer contacts stuck. b) Timer shortcircuited a) Check timer and replace if defective. b) Check circuit and take necessary action. 10) Motor does not run.a) Faulty wiring in pump b) Defective starting capacitor or relay. c) Faulty timer. d) Defective motor. a) Check wiring to timer. b) Check and replace if necessary. c) Check and replace if faulty. d) Check and replace if necessary11) Motor going out on overload. a) Open start winding b) Defective relay. c) Tight motor bearing. d) Locked rotor. e) Motor vents clogged with dust. f) Grounded wiring. g) Low voltage. a) Check winding continuity. Replace motor if faulty. b) Install new relay. c) Check rotation of motor manually. A certain amount of resistance should be felt because of spring loaded seal. d) Check for obstructions in pump. e) Clean motor. f) OHM check terminals to motor housing. g) Check for correct voltage to motor. 12) Detergent left in second dispenser cup. a) Detergent left to stand in dispenser cup too long. b) Dispenser cup wet when detergent added. c) Water spray action obstructed. d) Utensils obstructing dispenser. Racks in backwards. e) Low water level in tub. f) Cover does not open. a) Instruct user to insert detergent just prior to washing. b) Be sure cups are dry before adding detergent. c) Load dishwasher properly. d) Load dishwasher properly. Install racks correctly. e) Correct problem. Adjust floa switch. Confirm adequate water supply. f) Inspect bimetal or solenoid. Adjust, repair or replace. Lubricate moving parts with silicone spray.13) Door hard to close. a) Door gasket binding. b) Strike. c) Door hinges a) Inspect for proper installation. b) Adjust. c) Adjust. 14) Dishwasher drains continually or water does not remain in tub. a) Drain valve stuck open. b) Drain solenoid spring broken. c) Faulty timer. d) Rubber seal in drain valve. a) Inspect, clean or replace. b) Replace if broken c) Check timer. d) Inspect and/or replace. 15) Timer will not advance. a) Timer motor faulty. b) Defective heater. c) Defective timer, mechanically jammed. a) Check timer motor. Replace if necessary. b) Check and replace if necessary. c) Check and replace if faulty. 16) Dishwasher noisy. a) Water pulsating noise. b) Vibration noise. c) Motor screws not light. d) Solenoid hums. e) Chattering noise. f) Foreign object in pump or impeller. g) Spray arm hitting. h) Foreign matter in tub. i) Loose parts. j) Low water level. k) Dishwasher improperly loaded.a) Some noise is normal. There will be less noise with a full load. b) Insure dishwasher is securely I and evenly mounted and level. c) Tighten screws and/or connectors. d) Check inlet valve. Armature should slide freely. Repair, clean or replace. e) Check inlet valve diaphragm. f) Remove and check pump and blade. Replace blade if broken, bent or unbalanced. g) Check clearances and tighten hub nut. h) Inspect tub. I) Check and tighten parts. j) Correct problem. k) Instruct user. 17) Dishes not cleaning properlya) Hard water. b) Improper water level. c) Improper loading. d) Loose or dirty filter screen. e) Improper use of detergent. f) Water spots on glassware. g) Water not hot enough. h) Food film. i) Soft watera) It may be necessary to increase the amount of detergent used in a hard water area. b) Correct level. c) Instruct user. d) Refit filter screen. Wash out thoroughly. e) Advise user to change amounts or brands. f) Could be caused by hard water. Try changing brands and increasing amounts. g) Adjust water heater. h) Clean plates adequately prior to placing in dishwasher. Increase detergent. i) Decrease amount of detergent.  GARBAGE DISPOSALS PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Overload protector trips.a) Unit is jammed. b) Motor stays in start winding. c) Low voltage. d) Shortened or open windings. e) Defective relay.a) Remove material causing jam overload. On SLD50, SMD50 and SMD80 series, allow time for automatic restart. b) Replace start relay. c) Check voltage. d) Replace stator assembly. e) Replace relay. 2) Leaks around sink flange.a) Loose mounting screws. b) Insufficient putty. a) Tighten. b) Reputty. 3) Leaks at tail pipe gasket.a) Loose flange. b) Improperly installed gasket.a) Tighten. b) Replace properly. 4) Leaks between chamber and sink flange. a) Loose mounting. b) Defective gasket.a) Tighten b) Replace 5) Abnormal noise or vibrationa) Undisposable matter in chamber b) Flange gasket or tail pipe gasket c) Mounting screws loose. a) Clean out. b) Replace improperly placed. c) Tighten screws.6) Erratic operation.a) Loose wiring, switch, or motor power connection. b) Worn stopper. a) Locate and reconnect. b) Replace stopper. 7) Slow grinding.a) Undisposable matter. b) Damaged impeller. c) Insufficient water flow. d) Worn or broken tab on shredder a) Remove b) Replace c) Needs a minimum of 1 G.P.M. d) Replace grinding chamber. 8) Slow flowa) Partially clogged drain. This would also show with water off when not grinding. b) Clogged shredder teeth (usually due to insufficient water flow).a) Advise resident onuse. b) Remove material from chamber and clean shredder ring. 9) Jammeda) Something stuck between impeller and shredder.a) Physically move impeller with unjamming device until free. 10) Will not stop.a) Defective switch. b) Short in wiring. c) Incorrect wiring.a) Replace b) Clear short and insulate. c) Reconnect properly. 11) Will not run.a) Overload protector has tripped b) Blown fuse in power supply. c) Defective switch. d) Burned out motor winding. e) Open or shorted wiring. f) Defective relay.a) Wait for motor to cool off and reset manually. SLD50, SMD50 and SMD80 series will reset automatically. b) Replace c) Replace d) Replace disposal. e) Repair or replace. f) Replace relay.  REFRIGERATOR PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Unit will not run a) Blown fuse b) Low Voltage c) Broken motor or temperature Control d) Broken relay e) Broken overload f) Broken compressor g) Defective service cord h) Broken lead to compressors, timer or cold control. i) Broken timer a) Replace fuse b) Check outlet with volt meter which should check 11 5V plus or minus 10%. If circuit is overloaded, either reduce load or have electrician install separate circuit. If unable to remedy in any other way, install autotransformer. c) Jumper across terminals of control. If unit runs & connections are all tight, replace control. d) Check relay. Replace if necessary. e) Check overload. Replace if necessary. f) Check compressor. Replace if necessary. g) Check with test light at unit. If no circuit and current is indicated at outlet, replace or repair. h) Repair or replace broken leads. i) Check with test light & replace if necessary. 2) Refrigerator section too warm a) Repeated door openings b) Overloading of shelves blocking normal air circulation in cabinet c) Warm or hot foods in cabinet d) Poor door seal. e). Interior light stays on. f) Refrigerator section airflow control. g) Cold control knob set at too warm a position not allowing unit to operate often enough. h) Freezer section grille not positioned properly. i) Freezer fan not running properly. j) Defective intake valve k) Air duct seal not properly Sealed or positioneda) Instruct user b) Instruct user c) Instruct user to allow foods to cool to room temperature before placing in cabinet d) Level cabinet. Adjust door seal. e) Check light switch. If faulty, replace. f) Turn control knob to colder position. Check airflow control. Remove grille & check to see if damper is opening. When door is open, damper should open. If control is inoperative, replace control. g) Turn knob to colder position h) Reposition grille i) Replace fan, fan switch, or defective wiring. j) Replace motor compressor k) Check & reseal or put in correct position 3) Refrigerator section too colda) Refrigerator section airflow control knob turned to coldest position b) Airflow control remains open c) Broken airflow control d) Broken airflow heater a) Turn control knob to warmer position b) Remove obstruction c) Replace control d) Replace heater4) Freezer section and refrigerator section too warm a) Fan motor not running b) Cold control set too warm or broken c) Finned evaporator blocked with ice d) Shortage of refrigerant e) Not enough air circulation around cabinet f) Dirty condenser or obstructed condenser ducts g) Too many door openingsa) Check & replace fan motor if necessary b) Check & replace if necessary c) Check defrost heater thermostat or timer d) Check for leak, repair, evacuate & recharge system e) Relocate cabinet or provide clearances to allow sufficient circulation f) Clean the condenser & the ducts g) Instruct user 5) Freezer section too cold a) Cold control knob improperly set b) Cold control capillary not properly clamped to evaporator c) Broken cold control a) Turn knob to warmer position b) Tighten clamp or reposition c) Check control. Replace if necessary 6) Unit runs all the timea) Not enough air circulation around cabinet or air circulation around cabinet or air circulation b) Poor door seal c) Freezing large quantities of ice cubes or heavy loading after shopping. d) Refrigerant charge e) Room temperature too warm. f) Cold control g) Defective light switch h) Excessive door openingsa) Relocate cabinet or provide proper clearances around cabinet. Remove restriction. b) Check & make necessary adjustments. c) Explain to customer that heavy loading causes long running time. d) Undercharge or overcharge. Check, evacuate & recharge with proper charge. e) Ventilate room as much as possible. f) Check control. If it allows unit to operate at all times, replace control. g) Check if light goes out. Replace if necessary. h) Instruct user 7) Noisy operationa) Flooring not firm or is loose. b) Tubing contacting cabinet or other tubing. c) Cabinet not level. d) Fan hitting liner or mechanically grounding. e) Compressor mechanically grounded a) Brace or tighten flooring. b) Move tubing c) Level cabinet d) Move fan e) Replace compressor mount.  8) Unit cycles on overloada) Low voltage b) Poor compressora) Check outlet with volt meter. Underload voltage should be 115V plus or minus 10%. Check for several appliances on same circuit or undersized extension cord being used. b) Check with test cord and also for ground before replacing. 9) Stuck motor compressora) Broken valve b) Insufficient oil c) Overheated compressor a) Replace motor compressor. b) Add oil. If unit still will not operate, replace motor compressor. c) If compressor faulty for any I reason, replace motor compressor. 10) Frost or ice on finned evaporator.a) Broken timer b) Defective defrost heater. c) Defective thermostat.a) Check with test light & replace if necessary. b) Replace heater. c) Replace thermostat. 11) Ice in drip catcher. a) Defective drip catcher heater.a) Replace heater.12) Unit runs all the time. Temperature normal.a) Ice builds up on the evaporator b) Control bulb on thermostat not in contact with evaporator surface.a) Check door gaskets. Replace if necessary b) Place control bulb in contact with the evaporator surface. 13) Freezer runs all the time. Temperature too cold.a) Faulty thermostat.a) Check thermostat. Test and replace if necessary.  ELECTRIC WATER HEATER PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Water too hot. a) Thermostat set too high. b) Thermostat faulty. c) High limit faulty. a) Turndown thermostat b) Replace thermostat c) Replace. 2) Water not hot enough.a) Thermostat set too low. b) Thermostat too faulty. c) Excessive lime deposits in tank. d) Incorrect heater element. a) Turn up thermostat. b) Check and replace if faulty. c) Clean out tank. d) Replace with correct element. 3) Insufficient hot water. Hot water outages. a) Line voltage too low. b) Thermostat low. c) One heater element defective. d) Heater element coated with lime. e) Element wired incorrectly. f) Incorrect element. g) Undersize heater for load. a) Check and correct. b) Reset. c) Replace element. d) Clean or replace. e) Rewire element. f) Replace with correct element. g) Check water usage rate against tank recovery rate. Install water saving devices. 4) No hot water.a) Power supply. b) Incorrect wiring. c) High limit switch faulty. d) Thermostat out of calibration. e) Heater element defective. a) Check wiring all the way to service entrance. b) Check wiring against schematic. c) Check and replace if faulty. d) Adjust thermostat. e) Replace element. 5) Steam in hot water. a) Grounded heater element. b) Temperature relief valve faulty. c) Thermostats improperly connected. d) Thermostat contacts burned together. e) Thermostat set too high.a) Check heating element for ground. Replace b) Replace. c) Check for proper wiring against schematic. d) Check contracts and operation. Replace if faulty. e) Reset. 6) Slow recovery between demands. a) Top heating elements burned out. b) Thermostat faculty. a) Check element and replace if burned. b) Check thermostat and replace if faulty. 7) High water. a) Leaking faucets. b) Thermostat setting too high. c) Scale deposits on elements. d) Excessively exposed hot water piping. e) Short to ground in heater. a) Repair faucets. b) Lower setting. c) Clean or replace. d) Insulate piping as practical. e) Check element for ground. Replace if necessary. 8) Leaking tank. a) Tank leak. b) Leaking at plumbing connections. c) Leak at heater element. d) Leakage at thermostat or temperature valve. a) Replace unit. b) Repair or replace connections and/or fittings. c) Tighten element. Replace gasket and/or element. d) Repair or replace parts. 9) Hot water heater constantly tripping breaker. a) Grounded heater element out. b) Grounded lead wire. c) Incorrect connections. d) Incorrect breaker size or incorrect wiring size. a) Check for ground. Repair. b) Check all wires for ground. c) Check connections against schematic and back to service entrance. d) Check breaker size. Wires should be a minimum of: 12gauge wire for 3500 watt elements with 20 amp breaker or fuse. 1 0gauge wire for 4500 watt elements with 30 amp breaker. 8gauge wire for 5500 watt elements with a 40 amp breaker or fuse. e) Install new unit. f) Reconnect all water lines and electrical wiring. g) Fill tank. When tank is full, shut off pressure relief valve. h) Check for leaks at connections. i) Turn on power supply.  NOTE: Almost all apartment grade hot water heaters come with a sixyear warranty on tanks only. When a defective tank is diagnosed, it is very important to consult installation records to avoid replacing a hot water heater that is still under warranty.  GAS WATER HEATER PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSEACTION1) Pilot out.a) Pilot goes out when main comes on. b) Pilot goes out when pilot reset lever is released. a) Make sure gas valve is full open. Leak limiter should be replaced. Pressure regulator and valve body may be defective. The pilot orifice may be dirty. Replace. b) Check to see that lever goes far enough to left and that it stands in vertical position when lighting pilot. Lever may also have to be held for 60 to 70 seconds. Dirt in orifice. Replace. 2) Erratic pilot outages.a) Thermocoupling may be out of position. b) Latching pin wrong. c) Pilot burner assembly (when above checks fail). d) Wind blows into vent hood. e) Main gas valve. f) Clogged or dirty pilot orifice, clogged filter or leaks in pilot line. g) Extremely high or low gas pressure. a) Bulb should be 1/16" from tip of pilot burner deflector. b) Pin should be .015" from locking cap when the pilot is off. c) Replace d) Repair or replace damper. e) Check for full open. f) Clean or replace. g) Check with Gas Company. 3) No main flame.a) Gas off. b) Defective high temperature control. c) Defective regulator. a) Turn on gas. b) Test control. Replace if bad. c) Check regulator. Replace if bad. 4) Yellow flame.a) Air regulator, improper adjustment. b) Restricted air supply.a) Adjust air vent. b) Install additional ventilation. 5) Water leaking.a) Bad gaskets or seals at thermostats. b) Holes in tank a) Replace gasket. b) Replace tank. HEATING/COOLING HEATING PROBLEMSPOSSIBLE CAUSEWHAT TO CHECK1) Indoor air flow problems a) Blocked filter grate b) Inside coils dirty c) Filter dirty d) Blower motor not working a) Remove blockage from in front of grate. b) Clean coils. c) Replace filter. d) Replace blower motor.2) No heating  blower does not operatea) Thermostat set incorrectly or faulty b) Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. c) Defective component a) Adjust or replace thermostat. b) Replace or reset protective device. c) Check for proper control and line voltage of controls. 3) Insufficient heating - blower operates continually a) Dirty air filters b) Blocked supply on return air registers. a) Clean or replace filter b) Make sure registers are open and there are no obstacles blocking off the air. 4) Insufficient cooling fan and compressor runninga) Undercharged b) Defective thermostat c) Dirty filter d) Dirty indoor/outdoor coils e) Overcharged5) Compressor not starting indoor fan runninga) Tripped breaker/blown fuse b) Bad contactor c) Broken wire d) Bad compressor capacitor e) Defective thermostat f) Condensate drain stopped up6) Outdoor fan will not starta) Bad fan capacitor b) Bad condenser fan motor c) Loose or broken wire7) Indoor fan motor will not starta) Bad fan relay b) Defective thermostat c) Bad fan capacitor d) Bad evaporator fan motor8) Unit icing upa) Dirty filter b) Dirty evaporator coil c) Insufficient air flow (vents closed) d) Evaporator fan motor not running e) Undercharged9) High head pressurea) Defective compressor b) Bad condenser fan motor c) Dirty filter d) Dirty indoor/outdoor coils e) Overcharged f) Non-condensables in system g) Defective evaporator fan motor10) High suction pressurea) Overcharged b) Defective compressor c) High heat load11) Low head pressurea) Undercharged b) Defective compressor c) Cool outdoor temperature12) Low suction pressurea) Dirty filter b) Restriction in system c) Dirty evaporator/condenser coil d) Undercharged      / 0 P X g n o    ' ( ) * Q s t  0 1 K L y z { | ÷h-CJ^JaJh-hh[CJ^JaJh-hh[5CJ^JaJh-hh[5CJ^Jhh[5CJOJQJhRshh[CJOJQJh:h-5CJ^JaJhh[5CJ^JaJh-5CJ^JaJ9/ 0 P X g n $ $Ifa$$ a$ !& t"gd- $ Sa$gd- Sgd:n o UKKAAA  $If $Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX 0    4 lap   ' ( ) $If $If  $If # $If ) * Q s t zpaRCR k 1$If k 1$If k 1$If $Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la $If $If k 1$If k 1$If k 1$If  0 1 K L y z zmaaWWMm  $If } $If  $If + !$Ifkd3$$IflF D*XXX0    4 laz { | maaWW $If  d$Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la + !$If    G e f   S T { | } ~ 1HIdeh-CJOJQJheCJOJQJh:CJOJQJhh[CJOJQJh-hh[CJ^JaJO    zmccYYOmm $If  $If } $If + !$Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la  G e f zmcmmm  $If + !$Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la   S T zmaa[[[[[[$If  $If + !$Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la T { | } ~ g[NN :\ 3$If "$Ifkdw$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la + !$If$If 1HIZPP R$Ifkd$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la "$If $If  $If IdeZSSS "kd_$$IflF D*XXX0    4 la "$If  $If  $If   $$Ifa$ $ .#a$  34RSGHI\]^abcfghi  ;<?@AYZwx{|'(]^h-CJ^JaJh-hh[CJ^JaJh-hh[5CJ^JaJh-hh[5CJ^Jh-h-5CJ^JL34UOOFOO $Ifgd-$Ifkd$$IflFq* 0    4 lapRSztttttttth ,$If$Ifkd$$IflFq*0    4 la GHI\]^abcfghi$If 4$If  $If zh[[QQE  $If $If  O$If 2 8#($IfkdH$$IflFq*0    4 la  ;<?@AYZwx{ 2 8#($If @ $If  $If {|'(]^zhbVVVbhb  $If$If 2 8#($Ifkd$$IflFjz*"0    4 la  2 8#($If  $If | $If$If wx  st<=deyzEFGZ[nop)*;<QRUV[\h-hh[CJ^JaJ`wx ztbttVII &$If .$If 2 8#($If$Ifkdm$$IflFjz*"0    4 la  st$If .$If 0 $If 2 8#($If ! $If &$If<=deyzzpppjjjjjpjp$If $Ifkd$$IflFjz*"0    4 la EFtjXjFj 2,E$If 2C $If $Ifkd$$IflFj * |0    4 la$IfFGZ[nopFkd $$IflFj * |0    4 la$If 2,E$If 2C $If $If)*;<QRU $If $If $If^ .&$If  $IfUV[\paa  $Ifkd $$IflFj * |0    4 la $If   3478;<=@ADEHIa&'*/23Hbc}~   -DE`arsvwz{~hh[CJOJQJh-hh[CJ^JaJ\  3478;<=@ADEH $IfHIazppjjj^jQ  $If $If$If ~'$Ifkd= $$IflFj * |0    4 la pj$Ifkd $$IflFj * |0    4 la ~'$If &'*/23Hbc}]kd] $$IflFj * |0    4 la ~'$If$If  @$If }~ckd $$IflFj * |0    4 la  @$If ~'$If    -DEakd} $$IflFj * |0    4 la ^ $If ~'$If E`arsvwz{~pkd $$IflFj * |0    4 la ~'$If pj^   %' ~'kd $$IflFj * |0    4 la ~'$If *+3BIJxy+,YZ[GH ' ( !!!!!!h 3hh[CJ^JaJh 3hh[5CJ^JaJh-hh[CJ^Jh-hh[5CJ^Jh-5CJOJQJhh[5CJOJQJh:CJOJQJhrUpCJOJQJhh[CJOJQJ<+3B $ c$Ifa$$ ca$ 2  . 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