KEWA's Owner's Manual
Doc File 3,027.00KByte
Table of Contents
KEWA Inventory 6
Key Suppliers 11
Cheat Sheets 12
Sail Rig Cheat Sheets 14
Departure / Return Cheat Sheets 15
Returning to the Boat at Dock or Mooring 15
Basic Cruise Prep 16
Offshore or Extended Cruise Prep 17
Upon Departure 17
At Destination 18
Returning to Slip 18
Leaving the Boat (Short Term) 18
VHF Channels 19
NATO Phonetic Alphabet 20
Emergency Calls 21
Exterior Washing 23
Engine Room 24
Code Zero 25
Heavy Air Asymmetrical Spinnaker 26
Light Air Asymmetric 26
Anchor Sail 26
Yanmar 4LH-TE 105 HP Turbocharged Diesel Auxiliary 29
Fisher Panda Model 6 PMS Genset 29
AquaDrive system 31
Gori Propeller 31
Side Power 10 HP Bow Thruster 33
Mastervolt 24V Charger / 220v Inverter 37
Mastervolt 24V 110v Inverter 37
Balmar 65amp Alternator (24v) 38
24v Voltage Regulator 38
Original Batteries 38
Data Wiring Schematic 40
Chart Plotting 41
Autopilot: Robertson AP300X 41
NMEA Multiplexer: ShipModule 41-BT 42
Instruments: Simrad IS-11 42
Radar: Anritsu 48 NM radar with repeater RA 771 UA 42
SSB: ICOM IC-M802 with AT-140 Auto Antenna Tuner 43
Inmarsat C & Mini-M: Thrane & Thrane C/Mini-M Combo Unit 44
VHF: Simrad RS 8300 VHF Transceiver with Remote 44
Loudhailer: Raytheon 430 44
Weatherfax: Furuno D-Fax 44
Radio Shack Wireless Temp / Atomic Clock 45
Ground Tackle, Anchoring & Docking 46
Windlass: Vertical Lofrans Progress 2 46
Primary Anchor: 75 lb. CQR 46
Secondary Anchor: 20KG Bruce 46
Third anchor: H35 Danforth 46
Canvas and Cushions 47
Cockpit Enclosure 47
Sun Awning 47
ACR RapidFix 406 EPIRB with GPS Interface 48
Liferaft: Autoflug ALK2000R 6-Man Raft 48
Inflatable LifeSling 48
West Marine Throw Rope 48
Fire Extinguishers 48
Emergency Pump 48
Ditch Kit 49
Radar Reflector: Firdell Blipper 49
Deck Gear Notes 50
Deck Lights 50
Granny Bars 50
Dorade Vent Plugs 50
Drop Boards 50
Force 10 – 3 Burner Stove 51
Propane System 51
Magma Barbeque and Table 51
Frigoboat Refrigerator/Freezer 51
Electrolux Microwave 52
Electric Flush Toilets 53
MT Freshwater AB – MT 3200 54
MT-3200 Watermaker Cleaning & Pickling 55
Water Tank Maintenance 56
Technical Notes 59
INMARSAT Config 59
Vickie Vance Parts Comments 59
Todd Rickard 60
Stugeron / Cinnarizine 61
Washing Machine: Kenny Euronova 600 washer 62
Swim ladder 62
Helm step 62
Aft Lazarette 62
KEWA is a blue water sailing vessel designed, outfitted and maintained for serious offshore cruising. She was designed by Frers and built by Hallberg-Rassy in Ellos, Sweden in 1999. The hull number is 126. I believe that approximately 145 HR46s were manufactured before being replaced by the HR48 in 200x.
This is a living document designed to serve as a general operating guide for the boat and to also comment on relevant information related to the configuration, upgrading and servicing of KEWA.
|Item |Mfg |Model/Serial # |Description |Volt |Man |Date |
|Transmission | |KM5A | | | | |
|Drive System |Aqua Drive | | | | | |
|Fuel Filter Genset |Racor |220 Series |Cartridge R24S | | | |
|Fuel Filter Aux |Racor |Dual 75/500FGX |Replacement element 2010 series | | | |
|Regulator |Balmar |MaxCharge MC-624 |24v multi-stage regulator |24v | | |
| |Balmar |MaxCharge MC-612 |12v multi-stage regulator |12v |Y |10/06 |
|Alternator |Balmar |91224 |24v 65A alternator; 9-Series single output |24v | | |
| |Balmar |60-100-SR-IG |12v 100A alternator w/ internal backup regulator |12v | |10/06 |
| | |S# 4106B | | | | |
| |Hitachi |LR180-03C 119573 77201 |12v 80A alternator |12v | | |
|Inverter/Charger and Related |Mastervolt |24/2500/70 |Combi Inverter/Charger 24v/220V; 70A charger |220 | | |
| | |P# 028022500 | | | | |
| | |S# A01066814/A4 | | | | |
| |Mastervolt |24/1000 |Inverter 24v/110v modified sine wave |24v | | |
| |Mastervolt |IVO 12/35 |12V 220V 35a charger |220 | |10/06 |
| |Xantrex | |Echo Charge |12vdc | |10/06 |
| |Mastervolt | |Softstart | | | |
| |Mastervolt |CSCP |Combi System Control Panel (24v) | | | |
| |Xantrex |Link 2000 |12v Battery monitor | | |10/06 |
|Batteries |Discover |EV4DA AGM |24v House Service (4 x 12v 245a) |24vdc | |10/06 |
| |Discover |EV8DA AGM |12v House Battery (1 x 12v 290a) |12vdc | |10/06 |
| |Discover |EV31A AGM |Starter Battery (1 x 12v 114a) |12vdc | |10/06 |
|Compass |Simrad |RFCS5R |rategyro compass | | | |
| |Suunto | |Binnacle compass | | |Orig |
|Autopilot |Robertson |AP20/HLD 2000LS |Autopilot computer | | | |
| |Robertson | |(3) Autopilot controls (helm, nav station and under dodger) | | | |
| |Whitlock | |autopilot drive attached to rod steering system in engine room | | | |
| |Robertson | |hydraulic autopilot drive unit on independent rudder post arm | | | |
|Genset |Fischer Panda |P6 980902 |Model 6 PMS Genset 6kW 220v 50hz generator w/ Soundguard |12v start |Y |Orig |
|Backstay Tensioner |NAVTEC |A 370-A-22 |Hydraulic backstay tensioner | | | |
|Galley Range |Force 10 |M:61358 S:801988 |3-Burner galley range | | | |
|Bow Thruster |Sidepower | |10hp | | | |
|Instruments |Simrad |IS11 |Speed, log, depth, wind, central (multifunction display) mounted over | | | |
| | | |companionway | | | |
| |Simrad |IS11 |Multifunction display in master cabin | | | |
| |ShipModul |MiniPlex - 41BT |NMEA Bluetooth multiplexer |12v | | |
|VHF |Simrad |Shipmate RS 8300 Dual |VHF with handsets at nav station and helm and external speakers at nav station| | | |
| | | |and cockpit; spare handset | | | |
| |ICOM |IC-M72 |VHF hand held, primary | | |8/07 |
| |Apelco | |VHF hand held, backup | | |WK |
| |ICOM | |VHF hand held, backup | | |WK |
|GPS/Plotter |Simrad |GN 32 |GPS/DGPS @ nav station | | | |
| |Garmin |GPS 48 |Hand held GPS | | |WK |
| |Garmin |GPS 192C |Chart Plotter @ helm | | |7/05 |
|Loudhailer |Raymarine |430 |Loudhailer with preprogrammed fog signals and speaker mounted on mast. | | | |
|SSB |ICOM |IC-M802 |Single sideband radio |12v | |1/07 |
| |ICOM |AT-140 |SSB auto antenna tuner | | |1/07 |
|Antenna System |RR Electronic |Pacific |Antenna/amplifier/filter system (GSM/VHF/TV/SSB/AM/FM/Weatherfax) | | | |
| | | |Insulated backstay | | | |
|Radar |Simrad/Anritsu |RA771-3 |4kw, open array radar with antenna mounted on stainless steel pole | | | |
| | | |Radar CRT display at nav station | | | |
| | | |8" LCD radar repeater in cockpit | | | |
| | | |8” LCD radar repeater (spare) | | | |
|Weatherfax |Furuno |FAX-208 Mark-2 |Weatherfax | | | |
|EPIRB |ACR |RapidFix 406 |EPIRB Beacon ID: 2DCC361EBAFFBFF | | | |
|Life Raft |Autoflug |ALK2000R |6-person, low profile | | | |
|Dingy |Caribe |MVPL10 |Modified V Hull RIB | | | |
|Barometer |Speedtech | |Electronic barometer | | | |
| |Weems & Plath | |Analog bulkhead-mounted barometer | | | |
|Temp Monitor |Radio Shack | |Local plus 3 wireless remotes (Fridge, Freezer, Engine Room) | | |WK |
|PC |Fujitsu |Lifebook S6231 |Notebook PC | | |6/05 |
| |Planar |Part #997-2165-00, ID PV-150, s/n |15” Flatscreen monitor |12V 2.5A | | |
| | |M0036HE2104135 | | | | |
| |Logitech | |Keyboard (Bluetooth) | | |7/05 |
| |Logitech | |Trackball (USB) | | |1/06 |
| |D-Link | |7x USB hub | | | |
| |Sea Level |SeaPORT |4x RS232 to USB adapter | | |2005 |
| |Sea Level |SeaLink P# 2105 |1x RS232 to USB adapter | | |2005 |
| |Linksys |Wireless-G |USB network adapter | | |WK |
| |Nobeltec |0075-651548-7196-097491 |Visual Nav Suite | | |WK |
| |Nobeltec |UG124-57B2D-20E0F-B73CD |Sailing Package | | |10/06 |
| |Nobeltec |59360-45961-08260-49915 |Region 14 chart kit | | |WK |
| |Nobeltec |61100-22926-65080-87679 |Region 15 chart kit | | |WK |
| |Nobeltec |68557-31435-12092-35575 |Region 12 chart kit | | |WK |
| | | |Starry Night software | | | |
| |Canon |PIXMA iP90 |Printer w/ optional Bluetooth interface | | |WK |
| |Xaxero |WeatherFax 2000 |Weather fax software and USB demodulator | | |6/07 |
| | | |EasyMail Inmarsat C email software | | | |
| | | |StratosNet mini-M internet/email software | | | |
| |RAM | |PC mount with wiring | | | |
|SatCom |Thrane & Thrane |C: TT3020CM (or is it TT3626CM as on |Inmarsat-C (or mini-C?) | | | |
| | |phone?) Transceiver serial number | | | | |
| | |00205020 | | | | |
| |Thrane & Thrane |Serial # 76TT0755E6D2 |INMARSAT Mini-M | | | |
|Stereo |Pioneer |DEH-P4100 SuperTuner |Deck | | | |
| |Pioneer |CDX-P680 CD |6-disc CD Changer | | | |
| |Pioneer |CXB4285 |Remote control (qty 2) | | | |
| |Pioneer | |6-disc cassette (qty 3) | | | |
| |Apple | |iPOD w/ powered cradle | | | |
| |RadioShack | |Audio input selector box (iPOD or DVD player) | | | |
| |Boston Acoustic |Pro 60 |Component salon speakers | | | |
| |Sea & Symphony | |Cockpit speakers | | | |
|Video |Sharp | |Flatscreen TV | | | |
| |Colby | |Progressive Scan DVD |220 | |WK |
|Windlass |Lofrans |Progress II |1200w windlass w/ gypsy |24v | | |
| |Lofrans |02644 |3400rpm 69a 1200w electric motor |24v | | |
| |Lofrans |610024CB |COD 700-2000w motor 150a control box |24v | |1998 |
|Electric Toilets |Jabsco |Model 37245-1094 |Quiet Flush Electric Toilet, Large bowl (qty 2) |24emc | | |
|Watermaker |MT Freshwater AB |MT 3200/SSH |1998 #231 |230 | | |
|Washer | | | |220 | | |
|Flotation Devices |Mustang |150N/35lb, Serial 971294, 971296 |Crewfit, Uses Mustang Survival Rearm Pack C10019 or C10014 | | |WK |
| |Stearns | |Hip Pack, Halkey-Roberts Inflation 840, 840 AMUXEP6, Replacement Kit 905 or | | |WK |
| | | |906 (0906KIT-00-000) | | | |
| |West Marine | |Autoinflate vest w/ integral harness, qty 2 | | |2006 |
| |Mustang |Svendsens |Hydrostatic inflatable | | |4/07 |
| |Mustang | |Kids life vests, 50 – 90 lbs, qty 4 | | |8/07 |
| |Crewfit | | | | | |
|Refrigeration |Frigoboat | |Two separate systems; each frig or freezer |24 | | |
|Safety |Survival Technologies | |MOM8 | | | |
| |Group (Switlik) | |Service by Westpac Marine Services | | | |
| |West Marine | |Throw Rope | | | |
| |Life Sling |Inflatable |Life Sling, inflatable | | |5/07 |
|Power Connections |Marinco |Cordset |30a 125v 50’ (length?) | | | |
| |Marinco |Cordset |30a 125v 25’ (length?) | | | |
| |Marinco | |Pigtail, 30a 125v female to 50a 125v male | | | |
| |Marinco | |Pigtail, 30a 125v female to 50a 125/250v male (qty 2) | | | |
| |Marinco | |Pigtail, 30a 125v male to 50a 125/250v female | | | |
| |Marinco | |Pigtail, 30a 125v female to 20a 125v male | | | |
| |Marinco | |Pigtail, 30a 125v female to 15a 125v male | | | |
| |Marinco | |Adapter, 30a 125v female to 15a 125v male | | | |
| |Hubbell | |Adapter, 30a 125v female to 15a 125v male | | | |
| |Marinco | |Adapter, 30a 125v male to 20a/15a 125v female | | | |
| |Marinco | |Adapter, 30a 125v female to 20a 125v male | | | |
|Jewelry |Harken | |Snatch block, high load, (1/2”?) (qty 2) | | |6/05 |
| |Schaeffer | |FID block, (??) (qty 2) | | |6/07 |
|Anchor |Lewmar | |CQR 75 lbs | | | |
| | | |Bruce xx lbs | | | |
| | | |Chain, primary anchor, 300’ (3/8” ?) | | | |
| |Suncor | |Anchor SS swivel 3/8” to ½” | | |7/07 |
|Sails |Elvstrom | |Main, original non-battened as a spare | | | |
| |Elvstrom | |Main, hydranet cloth, with full-length vertical battens; new Quantum battens | | |6/03 |
| | | |8/07 | | | |
| |Elvstrom | |Jib 100% | | | |
| |Quantum | |Jib 90% | | |9/07 |
| |Elvstrom | |Genoa | | | |
| |Quantum | |Spinnaker, light air asymmetric with control sock | | | |
| |Elvstrom | |Spinnaker, heavy air asymmetric with control sock | | | |
| |Elvstrom | |Spinnaker, furling cruising (Code Zero) | | | |
| |Elvstrom | |Staysail | | | |
| |Banner Bay | |Anchor Sail, FinDelta #2 | | |9/07 |
|HR Parts |info@ (Vickie) |Factory parts supply |
| | | |
| | |Bow thruster zincs |
| | |Gori prop zincs |
| | |Watermaker chemicals |
| | |Watermaker filters |
|Max Boring | |Yanmar parts |
| | |Fischer Panda parts |
|West Marine | |Jabsco head parts |
| | | |
The following section of the manual contains checklists for common activities.
Guidelines for Working on KEWA
Nothing personal, but some less-than-optimum past experiences have made it necessary to make certain that anyone performing work on KEWA follows these guidelines:
❑ The bilge is clean, so please keep it that way. Do not allow oil, fuel, sawdust, debris, antifreeze or water to drain into the bilge. If something does enter the bilge, no matter what it is, please clean the bilge out thoroughly and properly dispose of it.
❑ Wipe your feet before setting foot on the deck. Protect the deck and cockpit if there is going to be traffic.
❑ Take your shoes off or wear booties when stepping on deck or going below.
❑ If there is work to be done below deck, put down protective cardboard, tarps or paper.
❑ It is assumed that all jobs include proper clean up to return the boat to the condition it was in prior to starting the job.
❑ Thoroughly test the installation/repair.
❑ Provide a written summary of the work completed and any notes on special considerations, configuration selections, etc. Also, please report if you saw anything anywhere on the boat that you believe I should pay special attention to.
❑ Please provide manuals and receipts for any equipment provided as part of the job.
Sail Rig Cheat Sheets
Removable inner forestay to foredeck tang. Hand tighten nut. Hank on staysail. Thick blue sheets are in aft deck locker. Tie sheets to sail and coil to granny bars. Sheets run inside shrouds and thru forward block when leading to cockpit. Prepare runners by feeding over top of blocks at aft toe rail tangs. Attach halyard and tie halyard and sail to deck with sail ties and lashing lines.
Lead through forward car outside of all shrouds unless beating, and then run inside of aft shroud.
When running, vang hard (?)
Can hoist or drop genoa/jib when sheeted in on any point of sail (depends on how tight the headfoil is)
Pole rig (see USS Passage Making pg 19; also Calder’s Cruiser’s Guide)
Departure / Return Cheat Sheets
Returning to the Boat at Dock or Mooring
❑ Drop boards stored in cockpit lazarette
❑ Check refrigerator temp & odor (under 42 degrees); drain excess water
❑ Check freezer temp (under 15 degrees)
❑ Open hatches
❑ Electric Panel: All light switches ON
❑ Electric Panel: Freshwater pump ON
❑ Electric Panel: Both toilets ON
❑ 110v Inverter ON
❑ Check bilge
❑ If staying at dock
o Plug in water heater (in engine room) and turn on at 220VAC Panel
o 12v battery charger on if less than 12.5v
o 24v battery charger on if less than 25.0v
Basic Cruise Prep
❑ If going to charge 24v system from Genset, set 24v charger Power Share to 20 for full charge
❑ Turn AC selector panel OFF
❑ Heavy Duty 220v breakers OFF
❑ Remove shore power cord from boat and leave on dock or fully remove and store in aft lazarette
❑ Check water tank level
❑ Winch handle at mast
❑ Simrad VHF handset at helm
❑ Handheld VHF at helm
❑ Air horn at helm
❑ Knife at helm
❑ Halyards led to mast
❑ Fully lift dingy; tighten retaining straps
❑ Remove hatch & winch covers and store in cockpit lazarette
❑ Helm & helm instrument covers removed and stored in cockpit lazarette
❑ Windscreen instrument covers removed and stored under nav seat
❑ Simard GPS ON at nav station
❑ Autopilot breaker on
❑ Start Nobeltec on PC; verify GPS & instrument NMEA feed OK
❑ Garmin GPS ON at helm
❑ Bow thruster cockpit switch on
❑ Radar ON if required
❑ FURL breaker on
❑ Winch breaker in nav station footwell on
❑ Windlass breaker in nav station footwell on
❑ Knotmeter transducer inserted / rinse bilge with fresh water
❑ Destow mainsheet
❑ VHF on
❑ Autopilot on
❑ Check genset coolant
❑ Check genset oil
❑ Check engine coolant
❑ Check engine oil
❑ Pump bilge
❑ Close hatches and ports
❑ Backstay tensioner loaded
❑ Halyards loaded
Offshore or Extended Cruise Prep
❑ Plot route on Nobeltec
❑ Dingy on deck
❑ Jacklines rigged
❑ Inner forestay moved forward
❑ Staysail bent; halyard on
❑ Prepare cruise log
❑ Ready runners
❑ Close forward cabin screw vent
❑ Knife at mast
❑ Radar repeater installed under dodger
❑ Satcomm system on; EasyMail started on PC
❑ Upload Nobeltec routes to Garmin at helm
❑ Reset Nobeltec log
❑ Activate Nobeltec route
❑ Activate Nobeltec tracking
❑ Reset Garmin GPS logs
❑ Activate Garmin route
❑ Reset Simrad log
❑ Radar on; Repeater on
❑ De-load backstay
❑ De-load halyards
❑ Lines away from mast
❑ Stow jacklines
Returning to Slip
❑ Knotmeter transducer plug replaced / fresh water rinse / pump bilge
❑ Winch handles from helm and mast stored in cockpit lazarette
❑ Halyards led to pulpit or bungeed away from mast to shrouds
❑ VHF handset off helm and stored at Nav station
❑ Wash boat
❑ Replace instrument covers
❑ Replace hatch & winch covers
❑ Replace helm cover
❑ Loosen dingy storage straps; lower stern; ensure drain plug removed
❑ Set 24v charger Power Share to 10 if 30A shore power service
❑ Shore power connected (MasterVolt confirms AC IN)
❑ Turn ON shore power at AC Panel
❑ Close out ship’s log; record any issues, required supplies, etc.
Leaving the Boat (Short Term)
❑ Clear perishables out of refrigerator and freezer; drain
❑ 12V charger ON at 220V AC Panel
❑ 24V charger ON at Mastervolt CSCP
❑ 110v Inverter OFF
❑ Water heater – OFF at 220V AC Panel and pull plug in engine room
❑ Close and lock hatches
❑ Replace hatch and winch covers
❑ Ensure Propane OFF at tank & electric panel
❑ VHF handheld, Simard VHF handset and air horn below decks
❑ Electric Panel: Everything OFF except:
o Refrig (leave at least one on to keep water circulating and prevent growth in hoses)
o Lights #4 (allows use of lights under dodger when returning at dark)
o GPS (provides for longer life of the GPS internal memory battery)
o Bilge Pump
o Water Pressure ON if watermaker flush active
❑ Drop boards replaced & locked
|DISTRESS SAFETY AND CALLING - Use this channel to get the attention of another station or the Coast Guard (calling) or in emergencies (distress and safety). |16 |
|INTERSHIP SAFETY - Use this channel for ship-to-ship safety messages and for search and rescue messages and ships and aircraft of the Coast Guard. |6 |
|COAST GUARD LIAISON - Use this channel to talk to the Coast Guard (but first make contact on Channel 16). |22 |
|NONCOMMERCIAL - Working channels for voluntary boats. Messages must be about the needs of the ship. Typical uses include fishing reports, rendezvous, scheduling repairs |96, 68, 69, 71, 72, 78, 794, 804, |
|and berthing information. Use Channels 67 and 72 only for ship-to-ship messages. |677 |
|COMMERCIAL - Working channels for working ships only. Messages must be about business or the needs of the ship. Use channels 8, 67, 72 and 88 only for ship-to-ship |15, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 18, 19, 635, |
|messages. |677, 79, 80, 881 |
|PUBLIC CORRESPONDENCE (MARINE OPERATOR) - Use these channels to call the marine operator at a public coast station. By contacting a public coast station, you can make and|24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 84, 85, 86, |
|receive calls from telephones on shore. Except for distress calls, public coast stations usually charge for this service. |87, 882 |
|PORT OPERATIONS - These channels are used in directing the movement of ships in or near ports, locks or waterways. Messages must be about the operational handling |15, 53, 12, 14, 20, 635, 65, 66, |
|movement and safety of ships. In certain major ports, Channels 11,12 and are not available for general port operations messages. Use channel 20 only for ship-to-coast |73, 74, 77 |
|messages. Channel 77 is limited to intership communications to and from pilots | |
|NAVIGATIONAL - (Also known as the bridge-to-bridge channel.) This channel is available to all ships. Messages must be about ship navigation, for example, passing or |13, 67 |
|meeting other ships. You must keep your messages short. Your power output must not be more than one watt. This is also the main working channel at most locks and | |
|drawbridges. | |
|MARITIME CONTROL - This channel may be used to talk to ships and coast stations operated by state or local governments. Messages must pertain to regulation and control, |17 |
|boating activities, or assistance to ships. | |
|DIGITAL SELECTIVE CALLING - Use this channel for distress and safety calling and for general purpose calling using only digital selective calling techniques. |70 |
|WEATHER - On these channels you may receive weather broadcasts of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. These channels are only for receiving. You cannot |Wx-1 162.55, Wx-2 162.4, Wx-3 |
|transmit on them. |162.475 |
Channel Superscript Translation
1. Not available in the Great Lakes, St. Lawrence Seaway, or the Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca and its approaches.
2. Only for use In the Great Lakes, St Lawrence Seaway, and Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca and its approaches.
3. Available only In the Houston and New Orleans areas.
4. Available only in the Great Lakes.
5. Available only In the New Orleans area.
6. Available for Intership, ship, and coast general purpose calling by noncommercial ships.
7. Available only In the Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
NATO Phonetic Alphabet
|Alpha |Juliet |Sierra |
|Bravo |Kilo |Tango |
|Charlie |Lima |Uniform |
|Delta |Mike |Victor |
|Echo |November |Whiskey |
|Foxtrot |Oscar |X-ray |
|Golf |Papa |Yankee |
|Hotel |Quebec |Zulu |
|India |Romeo | |
Channels of Interest
|Name |Ch# |Freq |Comments |
|Emergency |1 |2.182 | |
|WWV |2 |2.500 |Time |
| |3 |5.000 | |
| |4 |10.000 15.000 | |
| |5 |20.000 | |
| |6 | | |
|CG |15 |8.764 |Coast Guard weather (good signal) |
| |16 |13.089 | |
| |17 |17.314 | |
|WFX PAC |78 |4.344.1 |Pt. Reyes weather fax |
| |79 |6.451.1 | |
| |80 |8.680.1 | |
| |81 |12.728.1 | |
| |82 |12.751.1 | |
| |83 |17.149.3 | |
| |84 |22.525.1 | |
|WFX HI |85 |9.980.6 |Hawaii weather fax |
| |86 |11.088.1 | |
| |87 |16.133.1 | |
|BBC |104 |9.590.0 | |
| |105 |9.625.0 | |
| |106 |11.820.0 | |
| |107 |11.835.0 | |
|V of AM |109 |15.120.0 |Voice of America |
|BAJANET |115 |7.238.0 | |
|SONRISA |118 |3.968.0 | |
|MANANA |120 |14.340.0 | |
|PAC NET |124 |21.402.0 | |
| |816 |8.764.0 |Strong Coast Guard Pacific weather |
| |805 |8.731.0 |Weather |
| |1209 |13.101.0 |Weather |
|USCGAIR |127 |8.971.0 |Air control |
|AIREMER |129 |8.843.0 | |
Furuno Fax-208 Comments
Angel Island: Received noisy 8682 transmission on Furuno starting around 1900 pacific on 6/30/07. by 1950 noisy, but legible, then got very noisy again.
Good quality fax 7/1 after 2400 on 4346
Drake’s Bay: great quality at ~1900 12786
Great quality at 0830 8682
It is desirable to do a complete soap wash-down of the exterior after every use, using xxx boat soap. A professional wash-down at the dock is presently scheduled for two times per month.
Auto wash mitts help in getting all the rails, stanchions, and other hard-to-reach areas on the boat.
While cruising, which generally results in plenty of saltwater on the decks, no particular cleaning is required. At other times, wash the decks with boat soap using a very soft chamois mop, mopping perpendicular to the grain. The best way to lighten up teak is to sail the boat. The combination of saltwater on the deck and walking the deck will refresh it. If the teak deck becomes dark, which generally occurs when not used frequently, it can be cleaned annually with a very light mixture of either TSP and water, or bleach and water. Wet the deck, rub with a stiff sponge against the grain with the solution. Let stand for five minutes then rinse. Do it in small sections, one at a time so it does not dry before rinsing. Boracol solution from HR Parts & Accessories treats the deck to reduce the build up of mildew, which causes the black discolorations, but Boracol is not legal in the US.
3M Marine Wax for the fiberglass and 3M Metal polish for the stainless. Wax around the exhaust ports to remove the black stains as soon as possible after a voyage.
Polish the mast and boom periodically with Aluminum polish.
In the Bay Area, a quarterly bottom cleaning with a haul out every two years should be sufficient. The previous owner reported that in tropical waters he would use scuba gear and clean the bottom with a stiff sponge, along with a 3M scrub pad as necessary, and a paint scraper for the propeller. He found once a month to be adequate, except when at a marina, especially a well-protected one, in which case more frequent cleaning was required.
Wipe the mahogany wood with a microfiber cloth and Cabinet Magic spray. Polish the metal using Flitz metal polish. Use small Red Devil hand-held vacuum to vacuum the carpets. A Makita portable vac is in the hall cabinet for small vacuum clean-up jobs.
For the heads and galley, Simple Green is a good cleaner that is widely available. Occasional use of 409 to kill bacteria is also recommended.
Freshwater rinse anytime that saltwater is spilled (e.g., when cleaning the saltwater intake strainers). Clean with 409 as required.
Occasional rinses with bilge cleaner (Starbright xxx) and/or a light mix of bleach water to kill any bacteria. Dump a 5-gallon bucket of fresh water through the engine room and the forward sole locker. The bilge pump should come on and pump out, then use the hand pump to make sure the bilge is pumped clear.
The furling mainsail is a nice convenience, but some care is required to operate the furling efficiently. General guidelines when furling (in or out) are to have the backstay slacked and the boom about mid height (only very moderate tension on the leach). The mainsheet needs to be slack, which can often be achieved by heading about 5-10 degrees off the wind to starboard. Keep some slack in the foot of the sail; do not pull it tight against the boom. Once the sail is completely unfurled, ease the mainsheet if necessary to ensure there is no tension on it, then tighten the outhaul as desired. Tightening the outhaul with the mainsheet tight and the sail loaded puts undue stress on the outhaul block and will break the sheave. Replacing the outhaul block is complex, as it requires removing the headliner in the master head. To further complicate this, the block is no longer available from Lewmar.
I had the original battens replaced by Quantum fiberglass flat battens in August 2007. The original battens were round and constructed of three materials – fiberglass, carbon fiber and metal, and broke frequently. The new battens are stronger and a much better design.
A loose luff, blue, yellow and white furling headsail made by Elvstrom. It is made of lightweight nylon and flies like an asymmetrical spinnaker. Due to the cut of the sail you can’t effectively head below about 125 degrees with the main up, but it presents a huge amount of sail area and is a lot of fun when on a broad reach through just above a beam reach.
Attach the tack shackle to a tack line that is run through a block on the bowsprit and tied off to a forward cleat. Run the control line loop for the furler along the deck and secure it to a stanchion using the shock line and clip. Wrap a couple of turns of the furler loop around the gypsy on the windlass to secure it. Lay the sail out down the side deck and around the aft deck. Ensure that it is consistently and tightly furled so portions of it don’t catch wind when it is hoisted and before you are ready to unfurl it. Grab the head swivel and take it back to the foredeck, doubling back on top of the sail, and attach the halyard. Attach a single spinnaker sheet, run outside the lifelines, through the aft spinnaker block and to the small cockpit winch. Hoist behind the mainsail. Unwrap the furler control lines and ease the sail out.
The previous owner reports the sail is spec’d for the following (max wind speed at point of sail):
❑ 25 knots at 125°
❑ 20 knots at 100°
❑ 12 knots at 80°
Heavy Air Asymmetrical Spinnaker
A light blue and white spinnaker made by Elvstrom, configured with an ATN spinnaker sock.
Attach the tack to a tack line that is run through a block on the bowsprit and tied off to a forward cleat. The sock control line should be run through a ratchet block anchored somewhere on the foredeck. Lay the sail out down the side deck and around the aft deck. Ensure that it is not twisted. Grab the head shackle and take it back to the foredeck, doubling back on top of the sail and attach the halyard. Attach a single spinnaker sheet, run outside the lifelines, through the aft spinnaker block and to the small cockpit winch. Hoist behind the mainsail. Pull down on the ATN sock control line to raise the sock and fly the sail. When dousing the spinnaker, first blanket the spinnaker behind the mailsail so it collapses some.
The previous owner reports the sail is spec’d for the following (max wind speed at point of sail):
❑ 25-30 knots at 140°
❑ 20 knots at 115°
❑ 15 knots at 90°
Light Air Asymmetric
A white spinnaker with a flower logo and an ATN sock, made by Quantum. It is used the same way as the heavy air asymmetric, but allowable wind conditions should be approximately one half that of the heavy air sail. The previous owner reports that he does not recommend using on the pole.
The winds are strong in the Bay Area. It is not unusual to have 30k+ knots at anchor, and KEWA sails heavily while anchored, perhaps due to the hard dodger, I’m not sure. To help mitigate this, I have a Banner Bay Marine Fin Delta #2 anchor sail that markedly reduces sailing while under anchor. The anchor sail attaches to the topping lift, the boom and the dingy davits.
I installed strong, high-tech lines on each side of the boom, attached at the outboard end and tied to a horn cleat near the gooseneck. This makes it very easy to rig the preventer no matter what the sailing conditions or sail configuration. A small diameter blue line stored in the aft lazerette then attaches with a snap shackle to the desired boom preventer line (port or starboard) after the boom line is uncleated. This blue line is lightly rated so that in an extreme condition (boom in the water, for example) it should break. The line runs forward to a cleat or block for preventer control.
The rigging of this line needs to be updated to include a proper forward block and a long enough line to run through the jib blocks and back to the cockpit.
Yanmar 4LH-TE 105 HP Turbocharged Diesel Auxiliary
Previous owner used Mack Boring as a parts supplier and reports that they can also help answer technical questions such as what to do when the fuel filter bleed bolt sheers off (replace it with any stainless steel bolt that fits, don’t worry about the small pre-drilled hole in the original bolt.)
Yanmar Oil Changing
The Yanmar manual recommends an oil change every 150 hours, but I try to change the oil every 100 hours. The oil filter should be changed with every oil change. I use Delo 15w40. Reported capacity is 5.8 quarts, but it seems like at least 7 or more quarts are required if the oil filter is changed
I am installing a fixed oil change pump with drain lines that connect to the bottom of the oil pans of both the auxiliary engine and the genset. In the meantime, below is the oil change procedure.
1. Warm the engine for 10 mins (5 mins is too short to thin the oil).
2. Drain using Jabsco drain system (takes about 3 hours if 5 min engine warm-up is used and it is cold outside).
3. Put zip lock around the old oil filter, a diaper below it, and remove with an oil filter wrench. A lot of used oil will drain out, so be sure the diaper is well positioned.
4. Lube the oil filter gasket on the new oil filter w/ oil and install until gasket touches and then 2 – 3 more turns.
5. Log oil change and engine hours.
6. Start engine and run for 10 minutes to ensure no leaks.
7. Stop engine and check oil level. Top off as necessary.
Fisher Panda Model 6 PMS Genset
Fisher-Panda 6kW 220v 50hz generator w/ Soundguard.
The main distributor is in Florida at (800) 508-6494, although there is a new distributor on the West Coast (). Hallberg-Rassy installed a Racor instead of the normal FP fuel filter, so do not order any fuel filters from FP. Always order the Fisher Panda belts -- do not order generic belts as they cannot stand up to the heat produced in the sound proof box.
Do not replace the coolant block as described in the FP manual. This is only necessary if the genset is raw water cooled, which, as installed, this genset is not.
The previous owner had the 12v voltage regulator go out and tech support walked him through working around it by email. He recommended carrying a spare 12v voltage regulator for the genset. As of 2006, the 12v genset alternator is disconnected because the batteries are better charged by the 12v AC charger set up (an Echo Charger is used to charge the second 12v battery which is used a dedicated starting battery). The problems he had more frequently with the genset were cooling system related. Two impellers self-destructed, the fan belt came lose twice, and the hose on the exhaust side split. He added to the annual maintenance list the need to remove and inspect all cooling hoses on the genset to avoid that problem. Also recommend installing the Speed Seal cover to the impeller to make it quick and easy to check/replace the impeller.
To install the spare 12v regulator, per FP support: All you have to do is change the plug on the end. Bend the tabs down on the white plug and re install the black end on the plug. The shim you do not replace, all injection pumps have shims just depends on what engine all engines have a set which can be different and if not installed correctly can throw off timing but you do not replace them only if they are damaged. The fuel solenoid piece you have to disassemble the plug remove the screw and you have to de-solder the connections and the diode and remember the way the diode goes because it is polarity sensitive, unless the harness has melted.
If I can be of further help please email or call,
Thank You, Ricardo Colõn
From: Will Kruka [mailto:Will.Kruka@]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 12:50 PM
To: parts@; 'Will Kruka'
Subject: RE: Parts for P6 980902
Ok, thanks. Is the order for the wiring harness and the replacement
regulator being processed? Is the black plastic thing that sits between
the engine case and the injection pump the shim that you are referring
to? Is that not normally replaced when the injection pump is replaced?
From: "Ricardo Colon"
To: "'Will Kruka'"
Sent: 9/8/06 9:30 AM
Subject: RE: Parts for P6 980902
No gasket required for the injection pump only shims. The screws are not
available. I apologize for not letting you know.
If I can be of further help please email or call,
Thank You, Ricardo Colõn
From: Will Kruka [mailto:Will.Kruka@]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:48 AM
Subject: Parts for P6 980902
Received the parts and was able to install the new fuel injection pump
and the bleed upgrade kit. Genset now starts and runs beautifully.
I do need to do the following, however:
1) Exchange the 12v regulator -- the regulator on my genset has a long,
flatish, black connector, not the wider, shorter, white one.
2) Purchase a wiring harness for the new fuel solenoid I was sent. My
old solenoid has the wiring fairly permanently connected to it, whereas
the new solenoid has three prongs for a harness/cable of some sort to
connect to it, so I'll need the proper harness/connector for that.
3) I did not receive the fuel injection pump gasket that I requested,
nor did I receive the screws & nut for the injection pump.
Can you please send these parts and I will return the regulator I have
A shaft mounting system that ensures that the full thrust of the propeller is used to move the boat forward in the water and not move the engine forward on the engine mounts.
A propeller with blades that adjust optimize pitch for forward and reverse motoring, and also sailing. An additional feature of the Gori is that it has an “overdrive” to enable more efficient propeller pitch when motor sailing.
The proper requires, ideally, annual servicing. The gears are exposed and a good cleaning, replacement of the “bumpers” and lubing keeps the prop in great working order.
Reverse provides the same pitch as in the normal forward gear. Also, by keeping the blades folded for the reverse gear, but going forward instead, you have what essentially is a forward “high gear.” To achieve this, motor in reverse until the boat is moving through the water backwards, then switch into forward gear and motor forward (if you put the boat in neutral, the blades will flip back to normal gear). In normal gear and flat water, the boat typically achieves approximately 6 knots at 1700 rpm. In high gear, the boat should achieve approximately 7 to 7.5 knots at 1700 rpm.
The previous owner reported 3 occurrences of rope/nets wound into the propeller and had “spurs” (line cutters) installed. The debris never wrapped on the shaft, only in the prop itself. They noticed it pulling into an anchorage and trying to stop the boat. With all the rope around the prop, it doesn’t fold properly (when putting it in reverse, the blades are supposed to flip through to the other side), resulting in a tangled mess and a prop that only unfolds about 1/3 as far as it should thus providing very inadequate power. They usually put on dive gear to cut the fouling away.
When the propeller starts to turn under power, water pressure develops immediately on the exposed portion of the blade. The water pressure determines if the blades open to the right or to the left. The propeller opens one way when turning clockwise and the other way when turning counterclockwise. The face of each blade has one pitch and the back of each blade has a higher pitch.
When the vessel is put into forward, the propeller opens so that the face of each blade is the positive pressure side. The water pressure pushing on the blade face pushes the vessel forward. When the vessel is put into neutral before putting the vessel in reverse, the blades fold immediately under the current caused by the forward motion of the vessel. In reverse, the propeller rotates in the opposite direction, flipping the blades over. The water pressure is again pushing on the blade face and pulls the vessel in reverse. When under sail in favorable conditions, the skipper can decide to motor sail using the back face of the propeller blades, which have a steeper pitch than the front face of the blades. This is accomplished by starting the engine and backing down to put the propeller in the correct orientation. While putting the vessel in neutral, the current keeps the blades open. When the transmission is put into forward, the propeller blades do not flip over, because the positive pressure that develops when the prop starts to turn holds the blades in place. The sails are raised and the vessel is now overdrive, achieving higher speeds for a given RPM, or better fuel economy by running at reduced RPM's at a given speed.
The "overdrive" is used when motor sailing in fair weather or when using the engine under sail. The "overdrive" gives the same speed at lower rpms. The result is less engine noise, less vibration and better fuel economy.
The function is simple. When changing from "overdrive" to normal ahead the shift and throttle control is set in neutral, which allows the propeller to fold. Then the shift and throttle control is set in forward again.
You have be serious about it though, because to get into overdrive, you have to go backwards, then pop the throttle into neutral, then forward and you're in overdrive. It is nice when motorsailing though. I've never had a problem accidentally winding up in OD. It's pretty easy to tell when you're in OD inadvertently (i.e. no sails helping out) because the engine will be laboring and won't wind up like normal when throttle is applied. If you think about it (and this is one of the reasons I don't use OD all THAT much), putting the prop in OD without the sails helping to move the boat is basically like having an over-pitched prop, which is overloading the engine.
Side Power 10 HP Bow Thruster
The controls are integral to the engine throttle lever on the binnacle. Always test the bow thruster before you need it to make sure that it is turned on and functioning properly. Wait xx seconds after thrusting in one direction before thrusting in the other direction in order to let the gears stop spinning and to avoid severe damage. The unit blocks a too-rapid-direction reversal itself, by disengaging the switch in the opposite direction, but it is still best to wait xx seconds and avoid any risk of damage.
As with the prop, the zincs must be regular monitored and replaced as necessary (current estimate is replacement approximately every 6 months).
KEWA has a very comprehensive and flexible electrical system. Shore power can be 220v or 110v,via 30a, 50a 125v or 50a 125/250v service. On-board, 12vdc, 24vdc, 110vac and 220vac power is available throughout the boat whether at the dock or underway, supplied via shore power, the batteries, the inverters and/or the genset.
All the batteries were upgraded to Discover AGM batteries in October 2006. These batteries provide high capacity for the space they require (higher than the original Tudor 140s from the factory). They also require no maintenance in terms of filling with water, which is a big convenience because it eliminated the tedious and awkward requirement to periodically pull apart the bunks to get to the batteries and top them off with water. Further, as these are closed-cell batteries, charging them does not generate hydrogen gas, which in the original non-closed cell batteries was potentially dangerous even though the battery boxes are vented.
Unfortunately, the battery boxes installed by HR are sized tightly to the non-standard Tudor batteries. The Discover batteries are taller than the Tudors and therefore required some modifications to the battery restraint system, including screwing down the battery box covers.
AGM batteries require a different and more carefully controlled charging process than traditional open-cell lead acid batteries. To accommodate this requirement, a new 12v Balmar alternator with external three-stage regulator was installed to replace the existing Hitachi alternator with its internal single-stage regulator. Additionally, the 12v alternator and regulator on the genset, which used to charge the start battery at a fixed voltage of about 14.7v that is too high for the AGM batteries, were disconnected entirely. This means that that genset utilizes the start battery to operate and thus drains it slightly (about 0.1 to 0.3a) during operation, unless, as would normally be the case, the 12v charger is turned on while the genset is running. If a situation were to warrant it, the 12v regulator can be easily reconnected to supply a charge to the starter battery.
Discover AGM Charging per Discover documentation
@ 77 degrees F: CHARGE = 14.20v to 14.72v (std to max)
FLOAT = 13.40v to 13.80v
BULK charge should be less than or equal to 30a per 100ah and should end when voltage is 14.4v to 14.7v (28.8V to 29.4v)
ABS charge maintained at 14.4v to 14.7v (28.8v to 29.4v) until current acceptance drops by less than .1a in a 1-hour period.
FLOAT charge is 13.5v to 13.8v (27.0v to 27.6v)
Discover Battery Capacity
Getting the charging profiles configured properly and functioning adequately is a challenge. As of July 2007, things appear to be settling down some. The issues encountered include:
I have seen alternator charging of the 24v house bank be way too high – 31 volts or slightly higher at an ambient temperature of the mid 50’s. This problem appears to have passed, although it may be related to a potential issue with the temperature sensor (when it is disconnected, the voltage appears to top out at a few volts less). Additionally, when charging with the alternator, the 24v system starts cycling up and down – both the voltage and the current – varying more than one volt and 20 amps over a couple of minutes.
The 12v system never appears to reach the desired voltage whether alternator or charger driven. Not sure if this is potentially related to the Echo Charge system.
Genset charging of the 24v and the 12v battery systems is not functioning properly either. With the batteries significantly discharged (25% or less based on voltage reading), the following was experienced when both the 12v and 24v chargers were running in parallel:
2007 03 17
|Start genset; 24 & 12v chargers |1200 | | |
|on | | | |
| |1215 |27.05v |13.25v |
| |1230 |27.35v |13.30v |
|@bulk |1400 |27.95v / 35a | |
| | |26.45v / 12a | |
| | |cycling up & down between these two extremes over a few mins | |
|Chargers off; engine on @ 1500 |1500 |27.95v/47a |13.9v/35a |
|rpm | | | |
| |1530 |28.15v/47.4a |13.85v/34.3a |
|After increase to 2000 rpm |1600 |29.05v/50a |13.85v/33.3a |
|Back to 1300 rpm |1615 |27.7v/38.5a |13.85v/32.1a |
| |1700 |28.05v/38.7a |13.75v/27.5a |
| |1715 |28.25v/38.2a |13.8v/26.7a |
| |1745 |28.45v/35.6a |13.85v/24.5a |
| |1830 |29.3v/35.6a |13.85v/23.3a |
2007 03 18
|@ rest; strt genset; 24v chrg|1045 |25.15v / -4.0a |12.55v / -0.5a |12.95v / 0a |
|on | | | | |
| |1050 |28.2v / 32a | | |
|@ bulk chrg |1055 |28.65v / 21.9a | | |
| |1100 |28.7v / 18.2 | | |
| |1105 |28.75 / 16.0 | | |
| |1115 |28.8 / 13.6 | | |
| |1123 |28.85 / 12.3 | | |
|12v chrg on |1124 | | | |
| |1125 |28.85 / 11.7 |13.55 / 17.3 |12.95 / 1.6 |
| |1137 |28.85 / 11.4 |13.7 / 13.4 |13.2 / 0.8 |
| |1210 |28.85 / 8.9 |13.75 / 11.9 |13.25 / 0.5 |
|@ Float |1211 |27.15 / 4 | | |
|24v chrg off |1221 | |13.8 / 11.6 |13.25 / 0.4 |
| |1234 | |13.8 / 11.3 |13.25 / .4 |
Deep cycle batteries shouldn’t be discharged more than 50% of total amp hour capacity. When charging a battery to its full capacity, the last 15% of the charging is very inefficient. Therefore it is recommended that a battery bank be discharged to 50% of its capacity and then recharged to 85% of its capacity. Charging back to 100% is fine, but takes excessive genset hours or engine hours to achieve the final full charge. For KEWA’s house bank, following this approach results in 171.5 24V amp-hours of usable capacity. Assuming the batteries are in good shape, batteries can be discharged until the Mastervolt control panel reads –245 amp-hours, and then should be charged until the reading is approximately –73.5 amp-hours.
Battery Charge Indication by Reading Voltage
| |100% |75% |50% |25% |
|12V |12.6 |12.4 |12.2 |12.0 |
|24V |25.2 |24.8 |24.4 |24.0 |
These are open circuit voltage reading (no load on battery).
Battery Charging Profiles
❑ 12v regulator is a Balmar 3-stage external unit and charges based on the selected/programmed profile . There is a backup regulator built into the Balmar 12v alternator. The Balmar external regulator and the switch to select which regulator to use is located under the nav station footwell.
❑ 24v regulator is a Balmar 3-stage external unit and charges based on the selected profile. Standard Flooded Lead Acid profile is BULK at 28.8v, ABS at 28.4v and FLOAT at 28.4v. Gel = 28.2, 27.8, 27.4. AGM = 28.76, 28.36, 26.76.
❑ 12v charger BULK charges until it hits 14.25v, ABS charges for 4 hrs or until current is less than 1A for 15mins, whichever is earlier, then FLOAT charges at 13.25v. Jumper setting provides optional FLOAT voltage of 13.8v.
❑ 24v charger BULK charges until it hits 28.8v, holds for 4 hrs for ABS, then FLOATS at 26.8v
Mastervolt 24V Charger / 220v Inverter
This system is controlled by the Combi System Control Panel (CSCP) located above the engine room access in the hallway to the owner’s cabin. Produces a true sine wave output.
Mastervolt 24V 110v Inverter
Produces a modified sine wave output (trapezoid) that seems to power everything okay, except for a breadmaker machine.
CSCP Set Up
Press Set Up button for 5 seconds (the green LED will flash when Set Up mode is active). Then briefly press the button for the function to be set up (blue lettering). The present value will be displayed. After 3 seconds of pressing the function button, the display will begin to scroll through the range of values that can be selected. Release the button when the desired value is displayed.
The Power Share feature sets the AC current limit for battery charging to ovoid over-loading available AC sources. To enter Power Share set up, ensure that the green LED on the charge button is illuminated before entering set up mode. The selections are 5, 10, 15 and 20. The higher the number, the greater the amps available for charging. 10 appears to be a good setting for 30amp shore power service (20 will definitely overload 30amp shore service). At 10, a peak of about 44amps goes into the 24v house bank during charging. The genset can handle 20.
Reportedly the full specification charging rate for the MV charger is 70 amps, although the previous owner never saw more than just under 60amps.
The previous owner reported an electrical problem for which they never found the cause. The symptom was that the charging parameters got scrambled. Unplugging the control panel from the system to reset it to factory defaults solved the problem.
Turning the 24v gauge on at the electrical panel also illuminates the CSCP backlight. Ditto for the 12v gauge.
Balmar 65amp Alternator (24v)
The previous owner replaced the alternator with a new unit in 2004, and the old unit is kept as a working spare.
24v Voltage Regulator
A Balmar multi-stage programmable regulator is installed under the floorboard at the nav station seat. With this regulator the charging program can be selected from a set of factory-predefined programs.
Installed next to the regulator (under nav station foot board) are two switches to disable charging from the alternator. If the batteries are fully charged, the alternator can be switched off to avoid too much charge to the batteries, which may result in damage. Because the Balmar regulator wants to run a minimum 30-minute bulk charge to start, if you are starting and stopping the engine or if you run the Genset when the batteries are fully charged (???), you can disable the regulator. Also don’t run both the 24v AC charger and alternator at the same time as that may overheat the batteries.
The labels on the switches under the footwell indicate which wire they are disconnecting to the alternator and the resulting impact. ON = connected and OFF = disconnected. They both have to be connected to get any charge. Ignition Resets Cycle disconnects the Ignition wire to the alternator. When reconnected it will reset the charging cycle on the Balmar voltage regulator to the beginning of the cycle. The MaxCharge regulator display next to the switches indicates the present charging stage. The Field Resumes Cycle disconnects the field wire to the alternator. This temporarily disables charging, and when reconnected will resume at the charging stage where it left off.
The batteries provided by the HR factory are nicely set up -- isolated, vented battery boxes with removable locking boards to lockdown the batteries. However, the batteries as supplied were poor. They were not true deep cycle and, unfortunately, the tightly-sized battery box is dimensioned too close to the odd size and difficult to source Tudor batteries. The system originally consisted of 6 x 12volt @ 140amp-hours for the 24v side, (providing at total of 420amp at 24volts), 1 x 12volt @ 140amp-hours for the 12v service and 1 x 12volt @ 140 amp-hours for the starter battery.
HR Yahoo group user reports that the original 140amp Tudor domestic batteries measure 51cm x 19cm x 19cm. Others think they are actually 513 x 189 x 223 mm, and have used the Tudor HD (4D LT) (as installed by HR in many Yachts) as well as the HDX (improved version) and found that they worked quite well for 3-4 seasons.
Some HR Yahoo group users reported that they installed 4 of the newest SHD, SuperHeavyDuty, and so far are very happy with them, as they are more adapted to deep-discharge situations. The size is the same but they had to change the cabling as the
poles are only available in one version and it was reversed from the previous installation.
Tudor is a part of the Exide Group, which has distributors worldwide. Some report that you can get an ExideGel battery in the exact same size, the G120 120 Ah.
Nearly all flooded batteries are in the 1.260 to 1.280 range when fully charged at room temperature. Most deep cycle batteries should be in the 1.277 to 1.280 range at 77 degrees F.
Per Calder: In the US, the standard temp is 80 dF. If 70 dF, subtract 0.004. If 90 dF, then add 0.004. Let the battery rest for up to 24 hours if coming off a vigorous use
Per The specific gravity, SG, of the electrolyte in each cell of a battery shows the battery's state of charge:
Full 100% charged = 1.280
75% charged = 1.240
50% charged = 1.200
25% charged = 1.160
Dead 0% charged = 1.120.
Data Wiring Schematic
KEWA has two independent chart plotting systems, with flexible input and output choices.
Chartplotter: Nobeltec Visual Navigation Suite
This PC-based chart plotting system is an extremely feature-rich tool. A switch mounted on the back of the nav station breaker panel allows selection of the Garmin GPS192C (mounted at the helm) or the Simrad GN30 (mounted at the nav station) as the GPS feed into the software.
Waypoints and routes created in Nobeltec can be uploaded to the Garmin GPS192C for viewing at the helm and for general redundancy via installed NMEA wiring interfacing the two systems. The quality of the interface has been vastly improved in Nobeltec Version 9.1.2213.
❑ Create waypoints and route in Nobeltec. Do not share any waypoints with other routes. Keep route and waypoint names short (less than xx characters), with no special characters or spaces.
❑ Turn on GPS192C and delete all existing routes and waypoints.
❑ Go to Comm menu and configure Port 1 for Garmin Host, 9600 baud.
❑ Initiate upload from Nobeltec software, using comm port 10 and 9600 baud.
❑ Confirm proper receipt of routes and waypoints in GPS192C. If unit is frozen, disconnect power, reconnect power and reboot.
Chartplotter: Garmin GPS 192C
This self-contained GPS/Chart Plotter mounted at the helm is its own GPS and includes very detailed built-in charts. Waypoints and routes created on the GPS192C can be downloaded to Nobeltec, but I do not do this in an effort to avoid corrupting the integrity of the Nobeltec data, which may result from the finicky interface.
GPS: Shipmate GN 30 DGPS Navigator
This unit has an internal battery to retain memory when powered off. The previous owner reported that the battery lasts about four years and requires a technician to replace. Leaving the GPS breaker on will make the battery last much longer.
Autopilot: Robertson AP300X
The Simrad/Robertson AP300 is installed with control heads at the Helm, Nav station, and instrument panel under the dodger.
The normal mode of using the autopilot with a sailboat is to simply have it maintain a compass heading, however it can be driven by routes from either Nobeltec or the Garmin GPS192C. The APILOT switch at the nav station selects between these two inputs.
There is an intermittent problem with the autopilot heads not powering up properly. Sometimes repeated power-on attempts at a single head or going to another head helps. In one extreme case, two of the three heads were disconnected from the system resulting in the nav station head being able to power up the system (the heads can easily be disconnected from behind the nav station head).
The previous owner reported extensive use of the autopilot, and had occasional problems with it having a hard time getting back on course. The symptom was that the display indicated the needed correction, but the autopilot had difficulty achieving the correction in a reasonable amount of time and eventually the off course alarm would go off indicating the need for a manual correction. This most often occurred when on a point of sail that causes the steering resistance to change considerably as it corrects the steering. He reviewed the problem with a Simrad technician and after changing the system parameters these problems have been resolved. The settings are noted in the manual for the autopilot.
There are two drive units for the Autopilot and the selection switch is at the helm. The primary system (the one most used by the previous owner) is connected to the Whitlock steering system, inside the engine room. The secondary is a Simrad linear actuator connected to the steering quadrant under the port bunk in the aft stateroom. The advantage of the Whitlock, which is located in the engine room, is that it is much quieter than the Robertson hydraulic drive unit that is located under the aft port bunk.
NMEA Multiplexer: ShipModule 41-BT
This very handy device accepts NMEA input from multiple devices, including the instruments and the GPS system on board, multiplexes it into a single NMEA communications stream and communicates that stream via Bluetooth to the PC. One benefit is that the Sailing Package software option for Nobeltec can then read and display in various forms not only the position of the boat, but also the depth, and true and actual wind speed. Additionally, there are two NMEA talker outputs on the device, mounted on the back of the breaker panel in the nav station, to feed multiple other NMEA listener devices. I have not yet connected this outputs, but intend to interface the ICOM IC-M802 SSB, and maybe the Thrane & Thrane Mini- M/C system.
Instruments: Simrad IS-11
The control box for the instruments is located in the port cabinet just forward of the nav station. A compass (), the speed transducer and the wind transducer are connected directly to this DataBox. In addition to the dedicated display heads (Depth, Wind and Speed) on the instrument panel under the dodger, there is a multi-purpose head located in the aft cabin.
Radar: Anritsu 48 NM radar with repeater RA 771 UA
The main display is mounted at the nav station, but you can see it while seated on the starboard side of the cockpit. The auto-tune feature works well much of the time. The radar system is integrated with the other instruments so it can display SOG, active GPS mark and a line from boat to the mark, position of target, etc. The repeater in the cockpit works well, but setting the system parameters and some elements of the operation (getting it to function properly when in slave mode) are not entirely intuitive. The unit must be setup as a slave unit and the range on the repeater must be equal to or lower than the range on the main unit at the nav station. The antenna is mounted aft on a pole, which has extension arm with a dinghy motor lift and the mini-M antenna.
Radar Repeater Configuration/Use
❑ Power on main unit; transmit when ready
❑ Power on repeater
o Menu – SetUp – Display – Moni
o Ensure range ................
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