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440563012509500 BOOK OF RECIPES earth-friendly cleaning products39179512192000Tips, techniques & recipes created for Eco-Maids and used successfully bymany professional cleaning services throughout Canada and the United States since 2005 - by April Anderson – owner of Eco-Maids, affectionately known by her peers in the industry as the Queen of GreenBook of RecipesTips, Techniques & Recipes for Earth Friendly Cleaning ProductsIs dedicated to the children ……Let’s keep them safeAn April Anderson Publication- 2013Handcrafted by April Cleaning Products, The Queen of Green and The Green Goddess Campaign are property of April AndersonUse of the above names and logos specifically created for the above names areprohibited unless permission is granted by The Queen of GreenAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or informationstorage-and-retrieval systems – without the written consent of the publisherThe publisher has made every effort to ensure all instructions given in this book are accurate and safe, however, due to differing conditions tools, and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses, or other damages that may result from the use of information in this book.Welcometo the world of just another natural nut*just another natural nut trying to lead with a gentler footprint on this home we call EarthMY STORYIn 2005 I owned a cleaning service in Ontario Canada servicing residential and small offices. I had over 100 clients and 8 staff. ?I was hardcore when it came to the cleaning products we used (heavy duty industrial not off the grocer shelf) but I was also hardcore on safety when it came to using the products. Everyone had to follow proper procedure and wear the proper safety gear to cleanI had a client cancel her services for the summer as she did every year and when she reinstated the services we always scheduled for a first clean.The client’s shower was extremely moldy when we returned as expected. My supplier had introduced me to a new product, specifically designed for mold and mildew, and I was very excited to test it on the client’s shower (I was always testing to find the best products for the business)Because of the toxic ingredients listed in this product (I did my research), I had to buy special gloves and a face mask that carried a charcoal filter in it. I made sure my skin was not exposed and I was wearing safety glasses. I read the instructions, got on my two step ladder and started to spray.As I was spraying I took a deep breath. It hurt just a little so I did something really silly – I took another breather…a much deeper one. The pain was so intense, it knocked me off the ladder and as I was laying there on the bathroom floor, I seen the cloud floating near the top of the shower stall.Unable to breathe without pain, I went to the emergency department and found the accident had affected my throat and a portion of my lungs. The only thing that saved me from a worse fate was the mask I was wearing.I AM A TOXIC STATISTICLiving proof the cleaning products we use in our homes and business are unsafe for us, our loved ones, employees and clientsThat moment changed my life. Because of the accident I became extremely sensitive to many synthetic products and as the years go by the sensitivities get worse and the list of products I can no longer use grows. Each day finds another building I can’t enter (piped in air fresheners, laundered clothes, perfumes and hair sprays), another aisle in the grocery store I cannot go down, another home I can’t visit and products I cannot use- even many of the “natural” ones.I have no regrets as the accident did something amazing. It opened the door to a passion that I am very grateful for and the ability to share with others what I continually learn each and every dayWe have become a nation (Canada and U.S.A.) in crisis. At a time when cleaning products are supposed to make our lives much easier, it has become much harder. Why is that?I blame it on the advertisers. As we listen to our radios, watch our TV’s drive past billboards, read newspapers and magazines we are attacked. They reach in to our very souls and find our weakness and point out our inability to be perfect - to live in a perfect world, in a perfect home. To be that perfect one who keeps the home free of germs, to show off floors that gleam and appliances that sparkle and to have tubs that shine and windows so clean you would swear they weren’t there. With each major company covering every part of the home there are 1000’s of products on the grocers shelf to do just that…..give you the perfect home.But what price, as consumers, are we going to pay to have that perfectly clean home or business Headaches, nausea, respiratory issues, lethargy, skin irritations are just few of the signs the cleaning products used in your home are dangerous.When is the last time you read the ingredients on a product (if they were even listed) and had no idea what they were….that should be a warning sign. If you can’t say it and have no idea what it is, it shouldn’t be in your cleaning bucket.This recipe book is based on simplicity. Recipes created by me, for my company Eco-Maids, back in 2005…..tested perfected and received the ultimate praise by the many clients over the past 7+ years….their years of loyalty until the doors were closed in 2012.I hope, through this book, you find an understanding of why it is so important to use natural cleaning products in your home and business and the simplicity involved in the art of cleaning with nature.April AndersonJust Another Natural NutIMPORTANT INFORMATONPURCHASING INGREDIENTS FOR THE RECIPESThere is a supposed to be a difference between green, eco-friendly and natural. Just like there is supposed to be a difference between natural, 100% natural, Organic and 100% Organic. Unfortunately for most “green” and “natural” products on the market today, there isn’t.How can you tell if the product you hold in your hand is not what it says it is? Simply just follow the 3 finger rule. Is there ingredients listed on the label. If not, it’s not natural. Don’t get fooled by companies talking about what is not in their products instead of what is actually in their products. They are hiding somethingThere is ingredients listed but you cannot pronounce them, you can put it back on the shelf. Salt is salt, coconut oil is coconut oil, distilled water is distilled water. If they made it complicated then they are hiding behind the big words.You can pronounce the ingredients but it has a third party “eco certified” logo on it, definitely put it back on the shelf. 100% natural products are not regulated by the Canadian and U.S. governments.In this recipe book, I list products that I trust to be what they say they are because I trust the people who create them. I understand that the cost and availability of 100% natural and/or 100% organic ingredients might make it difficult for some to make such cleaning products so I have listed a few “green” alternatives to the recipes. These green alternatives have been tested and found to comparable to the natural products I have used over the years. The green alternatives do carry synthetic ingredients. COCONUT OILCoconut oil is an edible oil extracted from the kernel or meat of matured coconuts harvested from the coconut palm. It has various applications in food, medicine, and industry. Because of its high saturated fat content it is slow to oxidize and therefore resistant to rancidity, lasting up to two years without spoiling. Coconut oil is purchased in solid form but does have a melting point of 76 degrees F. It does not have to be refrigerated but you might want to keep in a cool spot to stop the oil from melting.Anti-BacterialAnti-CarcinogenicAnti-FungalAnti-InflammatoryFAQ – Why do you use coconut oil instead of olive oil in liquid detergent recipe?I cannot give you the scientific reasons for using one over the other but I can tell you, through testing of products with an olive oil base, a film is always left behind on hard surfaces, making it difficult to remove streaks and smears while polishing. I did not have the same issues with coconut oil used as a base.Varieties of Coconut OilPure Coconut Oil-This oil is extracted from dried coconut kernels, which are also called copra. It is crude, unrefined and without any additives. It is mainly extracted by compression of copra in a mill, either driven by bullocks or by power.Refined Coconut Oil- Is also known as RBD coconut oil, which is an abbreviated form for refined, bleached & deodorized coconut oil. As the name suggests, this type is obtained by mechanically and chemically refining, bleaching and deodorizing the crude coconut oil, to make it thin, colorless, odorless and without any type of particle (such as proteins) suspended in it. What we then get is only pure saturated fats.Virgin Coconut Oil- Virgin coconut oil is derived from the milk obtained from fresh coconut meat, and not from copra, by processes like fermentation, centrifugal separation and enzyme action. Care is taken to use no or as little heat as possible in the extraction of this oil. Produced in this way, the oil tastes and smells the best and is laden with antioxidants and medium chain fatty acids. It also has remarkable anti- microbial anic Coconut Oil- The coconut oil that has been extracted from coconuts obtained from coconut palms raised only on organic manure and no synthetic fertilizers or insecticides. The production of organic coconut oil is also completed without involving any chemical in its extraction or anic Virgin Coconut Oil- This type of oil is basically virgin coconut oil produced from the organic coconuts, in an organic way. This is perhaps the best and purest form of coconut oil one can imagine, but it is rare.Extra Virgin Coconut Oil- Among all the varieties of coconut oil, this is the most challenged and controversial variety, as its very existence is doubtful and the name hardly makes any sense. Cold pressing is one of the preferred methods for the extraction of coconut oil. The quality of coconut oil depends a lot on the method of its extraction. Basically, there are two main methods of extraction of coconut oil. The first is cold pressing of copra (dried coconut kernels) and the second is boiling of fresh coconut milk. Since boiling or heating destroys many nutrients and valuable components, coconut oil obtained this way is not considered as good as that obtained by cold pressing, since cold pressing retains much of oil’s goodness. Machine pressing and bullock/manual pressing are two methods of cold pressing.Machine pressing- In this cold pressing is done with the help of an electrically or diesel-engine driven oil mill. Most of cold pressed oil used in the world is obtained this way.Bullock/manual pressing: The oil obtained this way has a better taste and fragrance and is more expensive since the production is smaller, it consumes more time and energy, and wastage is higher. In short, it has a higher price, lower availability and better quality.SUNFLOWER OIL Sunflower oil is made from sunflower seeds. Up to 50 percent of the sunflower seed's weight is oil that is extracted when the seed is crushed. Sunflower seeds are made into cooking oil, as well as other products including margarine and soap.Sunflower oil, as well as being extremely healthy, is also versatile. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations due to its high Vitamin E level and emollient (moisturizing) properties. Most oils benefit the skin by retaining moisture, but sunflower oil is special in that it can also leave a protective layer on the skin that resists infection. New research has shown that pre-term infants, who are more susceptible to skin disease due to under development of the skin, can benefit from the use of sunflower oil applied directly. The majority of sunflower oil is refined industrially and warm-pressed. Cold pressing sunflower oil is becoming more prominent and is labeled “Extra Virgin”, the same as the label for premium olive oil. Cold pressed sunflower oil is considered to have a better taste than that of the refined variant, while also keeping more of its nutrients and having a higher level of monounsaturated fats.It works synergistically with coconut oil to give a nice, rich, creamy lather that's very moisturizing. Organic Sunflower Oil is extracted typically from organically grown sunflower seeds which are naturally refined without the usage of any industrial solvent and irradiation method.OLIVE OILOlives are a type of fruit called a drupe which is basically a type of fleshy fruit that has one hard pit/seed at the center. First, the olives are crushed and ground into a paste. Then, the oil is separated from the paste by various methods. The first oil that comes from the very first crush is the “virgin” olive oil. The paste that is left behind after the first extraction is called “pomace.” The pomace contains the ground skins, pits, flesh, and a little bit of oil. Chemical extraction is used to get the last bit of oil out of the pomace.The OilsExtra Virgin Olive OilTo qualify as “extra virgin”, an olive oil must meet four criteria: It must be produced only by mechanical extraction (no hot water or chemicals applied to extract the oil from the olives) It must come from the first pressing of the olives It must have a free oleic acidity level of less than one percent and It must have perfect tasteNote: The “free acidity” level shouldn’t be confused with the overall fatty acid makeup of the oil. Olive oil generally contains between 60% and 80% oleic acid – what qualifies and olive oil as “extra virgin” is the low amount of “free fatty acids”.Virgin Olive OilVirgin olive oil also comes from the first pressing of the olives and also must be extracted without chemicals. Virgin olive oil can have a free acidity level of up to 3.3%, though.Pure Olive OilSometimes also called “Grade A” olive oil, this grade of oil is a blend of virgin olive oil and refined oils. The refining process takes away some of the vitamins, nutrients and flavor of the oil, but the blending provides a more stable and consistent oil. “Grade A” oil is the most common used for making soap.Pomace Olive OilPomace olive oil comes from the dregs of the olive paste – as the last drops of oil (between 5-8% of the total amount of oil in the olives) are extracted from the skins, pits and ground flesh of the olives. It generally has a much greener color and is not as clear as virgin olive oil. It doesn’t have the flavor that virgin olive oils have, so it is mostly (to our benefit) relegated to industrial and soap making uses. But that’s fine, because it still has largely the same fatty acid makeup of virgin olive oil, so other than the greenish color, it makes very similar soap.Which Olive Oil to Choose Don’t worry too much about the grade of your olive oil. All of the grades of olive oil have predominantly the same fatty acid makeup, so each of them is going to make very similar soap. Organic Olive Oil Organic olive oil Is made by crushing and pressing olives to extract their rich, flavorful oils. While there are many kinds of olive oil on the market, those marked as organic are generally produced using sustainable methods. This may include growing and harvesting the olives without harsh chemicals or pesticides. Compared to standard olive oil, organic olive oil is often has an improved taste and nutritional value. It also creates less damage to the environment throughout its production cycle.VODKAVodka just isn’t just for drinking it is also an important ingredient for natural cleaning. Vodka is a disinfectant, cuts through grease and soap scum, buffs to a shine and binds the essential oils to the other ingredients. It does all this without emitting any VOC’s in to the air and unlike vinegar it is odorless.FAQ – Why not use Rubbing Alcohol instead?Rubbing alcohol is made from 70 to 95% ethanol, or ethyl alcohol, along with water, acetone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and additives to give it a bitter taste. It has been rendered unfit for human consumption by the addition of poisons and bitter-tasting ingredients. Denaturing allows an alcohol product to be sold without the taxes placed on drinking alcohol, so that it can be used for its other benefits. Alcohol in this form can cause permanent injury or death if consumedWhat brand of vodka is up to you but I always suggest purchasing from a local distiller whenever you can. The vodka pictured above is from a local private distiller in my area (Ontario). SODIUM BICARBONATE(PURE BAKING SODA)Sodium bicarbonate is produced when carbon dioxide combines with water then it is neutralized to its sodium salt. It is perfect for deodorizing, scouring without scratching, softening water and removing soap scum from fiberglass tubsWATERYes, it is important to use the proper water when making your cleaning products. Tap water carries fluoride, chlorine bleach, and other chemicals from medications, cleaning products, paint solvents to name a few. Most bottled waters aren’t so pure either.I always suggest using Reverse Osmosis which can be purchased in different quantities. HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3% Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the simplest peroxide (a compound with an oxygen-oxygen single bond). It is also a strong oxidizer. Hydrogen peroxide is a clear liquid, slightly more viscous than water. In dilute solution, it appears colorless. Due to its oxidizing properties, hydrogen peroxide is often used as a bleach or cleaning agent. The rate of decomposition is dependent on the temperature (a cool environment slows down decomposition, therefore hydrogen peroxide is often stored in a refrigerator) and light (always keep product in a dark colored container)I purchase a 35% Food Grade and break it down to a 3% (never use at 35%). I do this because of the freshness of the product. By buying through people I trust, I know I am getting a superior product that has not been sitting around.You will need safety glasses, rubber gloves and a face mask when working with the 35% Hydrogen Peroxide.LIQUID DETERGENT FOR HAND WASHING DISHESIt’s not for washing dishes anymore. Think of this product as the concentrated base for a whole bunch of other products to clean your home. That’s right, think like the big companies – they don’t create a whole bunch of different products, they start with a few and tweak them to become many. By the time they have produced their all-purpose product to put on the grocers shelf you are purchasing mostly water with little “base” product for a ridiculous price.Now I am extremely particular about the products I use because all are not created equal. The “green” products contain synthetic ingredients and that includes synthetic fragrances that have known toxic ingredients (but they don’t have to tell us because they are allowed to keep the secret of the fragrance….the government say so). The “natural” products are just as bad as most carry synthetic ingredients and many include synthetic fragrances simply because they can (natural and organic are not government regulated). With some of these products respiratory issues become a problem when they are pressurized in a spray formula, causing headaches, nausea, sore throats, difficulty in breathing.I trust only 2 products on the market today to be safe to use. I have checked out other products, recently the top 9 natural cleaning products in the U.S. because I was trying to find a comparable to the Canadian products that I have tested and liked. Not one passed the most important test…the list of ingredients. So back to researching in hopes I will find a product that is natural and easily accessible in the U.S. 100% Natural – Handcrafted by Aprilmade with 100% natural ingredients the crafter is passionate about their impact on the environment.Natural - Nature Clean Their product is 98% natural (the scent is natural) and does not become volatile under pressure of a spray bottleESSENTIAL OILSEssential oils, or 'essences' as they are also called, are highly concentrated substances extracted from various parts of aromatic plants and trees. They are usually captured by steam distillation, a process whose origins can be traced back to ancient Mesopotamia.Unlike ordinary vegetable oils, such as corn and olive, plant essences are highly volatile and will evaporate if left in the open air. The chemistry of essential oils is complex. Most consist of hundreds of components, such as terpenes, alcohols, aldehydes, and esters.A certain kind of synergy is created when different essential oils are blended togetherA Frenchman called Piesse classified the odors of essential oils in the 19th century according to musical scales, and this is where the top, middle and base notes originated.As a rule of thumb, the combination between top, middle and base notes should be in harmony selecting oils from all three categories but using less of the top and middle notes than that of the base note.There are some "rules" that people like to mention, and it goes like thisTop notes 15 - 25% of the blendMiddle notes 30 - 40% of the blend.Base notes 45 - 55% of the blend.Even with such "rule of blending" the most important thing to keep in mind is that you like it.A good blend is normally compiled by mixing oils from all three classes of oils - that being top notes, middle notes and base notes.The list below is a sample of some of the essential oils you would use in the recipes in this book. Please be advised, the notes may differ when you do your research on line but with doing my research I came up with these. For a full list and chart of compatible essential oils contact me. Top notes Essential oils that are classified as top notes normally evaporate very fast and most have anti-viral properties.They tend to be light, fresh and uplifting in nature and are generally not very expensive. Top notes are generally highly volatile, fast acting, give the first impression of the blend and are not very long lasting.The following essential oils are considered top notes:EucalyptusGrapefruitLemonLemongrass (to middle)MandarinOrangePeppermintSpearmintTea Tree (to middle)Thyme (to middle)Middle notes The bulk of essential oils are considered middle notes and normally give body to the blend and have a balancing effect.The smells of middle notes are not always immediately evident and may take a couple of minutes to come into their own right and are normally warm and soft fragrances.The following essential oils are considered middle notes:ChamomileGeraniumLavender (To Top)PineRosemaryBase notes Essential oils that are classified as base notes are normally "heavy" oils with their fragrance evident, but will also slowly evolve and be present for a long time and slow down the evaporation of the other oils.These fragrances are normally intense and heady. They are normally rich and relaxing in nature and are also the most expensive of all oils.The following essential oils are considered base notes: CloveGinger (to middle)JasmineRosewood (to middle)Sandalwood’Yling Ylang (to middle)3 Client FavouritesLAVENDER & TEA TREE – 7 drops of lavender and 4 drops of tea tree in a 32 oz. spray bottleCITRUS BURST – 5 drops of Lemongrass, 8 drops of Lime, 8 drops of Pink Grapefruit in a spray bottleROSEMARY MINT – 5 drops of Rosemary and 3 drops of Spearmint in a 32 oz. spray bottleSTART WITH A CLEAN WORK SPACEYOUR TOOLSEach recipe in this book will list the tools you will need to make each particular product. Below is a list of the tools and containers I keep on handSPRAY BOTTLES – I use 24 oz. glass spray bottles but I work alone. It is in your best interest to use plastic spray bottles when dealing with employees.CONTAINERS – I use glass canning jars and jars with seals from second hand stores for large quantities of product and for storing ingredients needed for recipes. For smaller quantities I use recyclable and compostable portion cups with lids in sizes 2, 4, and 8 ounce. I use large-mouth glass jars for dry products.MEASURING CUPS AND SPOONS – Glass wet measuring cups, ceramic dry measuring cups and wooden spoons. No metal and I try to stay away from any plastic.KITCHEN SCALE – Only needed if you are making your own liquid detergent & soapsSLOW COOKER – I make my own liquid detergent, liquid laundry soap, and castile soap and a slow cooker is easier to control than cooking on a stove top. I purchase mine from a second hand store.PAPER BAGS – to store the baking soda while it is being infused with herbs or spicesMAKE YOUR OWN BASE CONCENTRATESLIQUID DETERGENT FOR HAND WASHING DISHES&CASTILE SOAPINGREDIENTS20 oz. Organic Sunflower Oil20 oz. Organic Coconut Oil10 oz. Distilled Water7 oz. Potassium Hydroxide30 oz. Hot Distilled Water(for diluting)2 Tbsp. Citric Acid1-2 oz. Essential OilTOOLSSafety GlassesRubber GlovesFace MaskSlow CookerKitchen ScaleMeasuring Cups & SpoonsWood Stir SpoonYou can use regular oils instead of organic. It will still be a natural productORGANIC LIQUID DETERGENTMeasure OilsAdd measured oil to your crockpot. Turn on the high setting and allow the oils to heat up.Mix LyeWearing protective goggles and gloves, add measured Potassium Hydroxide to your water and mix. Avoid breathing in the fumes. Do this in a well- ventilated area. NEVER POUR WATER IN TO LYEAdd Lye to oilsAdd lye to oils and mix until the soap traces. Soap may separate. This is normal. Once you reach trace, mix every 15 minutes until the soap no longer separates. It should look creamy and may require 3 or 4 mixes with 15 minutes in between each.Keep MixingWhen the soap mixture does not separate, continue to cook the soap on High, mixing every 30 minutes until the soap goes from creamy to translucent or Vaseline-looking consistency.Testing Time.Mix 1 oz. of soap paste with 2 ounces of water and if the soap is clear, you are finished. If the soap is very cloudy, keep cooking the soap until your test mixture is clear.Dilute and neutralizeAdd Citric Acid to 30oz of boiling distilled water. Add to soap and blend until the soap is an even consistency. Don't worry if stirring causes cloudiness in your soap. This is only air bubbles that will settle out.Add ScentMix in essential oil. Blend. Please note that using Essential Oils will cause clouding of the soap. Bottle your soap The process takes about 6 hours to complete.INGREDIENTS37 oz. Organic Olive Oil32.9 oz. Distilled Water9.39 oz. Potassium Hydroxide80 oz. Boiled Distilled Water(for diluting)TOOLSSafety GlassesRubber GlovesFace MaskSlow CookerDigital ScaleMeasuring Cups & SpoonsWood Stir SpoonElectric Hand BlenderLarge PotYou can use regular olive oil instead of organic. It will still be a natural productCASTILE SOAPMeasure OilsAdd measured oil to your crockpot. Turn on the high setting and allow the oil to heat up.Mix LyeWearing protective goggles and gloves, add measured Potassium Hydroxide to your water and mix. Avoid breathing in the fumes. Do this in a well- ventilated area. NEVER POUR WATER IN TO LYEAdd Lye to OilAdd lye to oil and mix until the soap traces. Soap may separate. This is normal. Once you reach trace, mix every 15 minutes until the soap no longer separates. It should look creamy and may require 3 or 4 mixes with 15 minutes in between each.Keep MixingWhen the soap mixture does not separate, continue to cook the soap on High, mixing every 30 minutes until the soap goes from creamy to translucent or Vaseline-looking consistency. When the mixture gets too thick for the electric hand mixer you will have to use the wooden spoon and arm powerTesting Time.Mix 1 oz. of soap paste with 2 ounces of boiling water and if the soap is clear, you are finished. If the soap is very cloudy, keep cooking the soap until your test mixture is clear.Dilute When the soap is done?cooking, place it all into the bottom of a large (stainless steel only) cooking pot or sturdy plastic pail. Pour 80 oz. (5 pounds) of boiled distilled water over the top and allow to sit overnight to dissolve (may take more or less time). When dissolved, pour into whatever jugs you have (distilled water gallon jugs work great!) and let “cure” for 4 weeks. ALL PURPOSE CLEANER It seems we are always trying to overdo things. I call it “overkill” I remember researching for natural all-purpose products available to clients in the U.S. and I came across one that listed a multitude of ingredients that just did not need to be in the product and the first thing that crossed my mind is what a waste.I recommend – the Home-made recipe in this book for liquid detergent, JUST ANOTHER NATURAL NUT ORGANIC SOAP OR NATURE CLEAN LIQUID DETERGENT for hand washing dishes.Remember to look at the ingredients to ensure they are not using “FRAGRANCE” or synthetic scents. I have found issues with product like Seventh Generation, Earth Friendly, Green Works and Method. They tend to irritate the throat and lungs when under pressure (spray bottle) as well as cause headaches How to use your All-Purpose CleanerFor most jobs just spray and wipe…for sinks, showers, greasy stove tops, inside of microwaves etc….spray the area and let it dwell for a short period of time and then clean. It has been proven over and over that you only need a cloth (not a scrubber) to clean most areas…a scrubbing brush is necessary for edges and corners though…the places we cannot really get at with just a cloth.Dilution Rates for All – Purpose Cleaner16 oz. Spray Bottles (double the amount for 32 oz.) All-Purpose Spray - Light(for light or every day cleaning)All-Purpose Spray – Medium(for high traffic areas)All-Purpose Spray – Heavy(first cleans and extreme cleaning)Hard Floor/ Wood Floor SprayFloor Cleaner (bucket)1 tsp. liquid dish detergent, ? tsp HP, ? tsp. vodkaFill with distilled or R/O water. Shake2 tsps. liquid dish detergent, ? tsp HP, ? tsp vodkaFill with distilled or R/O water. Shake1 Tbsp. liquid dish detergent 1 tsp HP, 1 tsp vodkaFill with distilled or R/O water. Shake? tsp. liquid dish detergentFill with distilled or R/O water. Shake? teaspoon liquid dish detergent to every gallon of water.I never create large batches to pour into spray bottles as you can never guarantee the same amount of ingredients go in to each bottle. Individually measured is the best.How do you know which spray is best for your cleaning tasks. I always start with the Light and if that doesn’t work go up to the next levels until I get the results I need. When first switching over to natural cleaning products, you might find the Heavy will be your prominent All-Purpose but that is only because it is needed to break through the film that is left behind by the conventional cleaners. Each future visit in to your clients’ homes, you will stop using the Heavy and work your way to the Light and you will start to notice you are using less product to clean with (don’t overspray as it is not necessary and a waste of product and time. Always start with a couple of bursts of spray and add more bursts if needed.) All-Purpose Spray cleans and polishes (without harming)….Bathroom and kitchen sinksTaps and faucetsTub and shower insertsTub and shower tilesTubsMetal in shower stalls and shower doorsInside bottom of shower curtains (where the pink mould is)Bathroom and kitchen cupboards…handles tooBathroom and kitchen countersSoap dishes, toothbrush holders, tissue boxes, etc.Outside of toilets and toilet seatsHair dryers and curling ironsTowel racksHot and cold air ventsMarble and granite counter topsStove tops and fronts (sides too)…just not stainless Dishwashers inside and out …just not stainlessInside and out of microwavesSmall kitchen appliancesExhaust fansBacksplashWindow sillsFramework and BaseboardsDoorsCribs, change tables, high chairs, playpens, toysWasher and dryerWastebasketsFloors GLASS CLEANER The vodka in the glass cleaner acts as a disinfectant and breaks through hairspray residue.How to use your Glass CleanerThe Glass Cleaner is used for cleaning over 90% of the home. It can clean full kitchens and bathrooms (in place of the all-purpose) when they are not classified as high traffic areas. Once again, you have to remember that “overkill” hurts your bottom line. For most jobs just lightly spray and wipe. It has been proven over and over that you only need a cloth (not a scrubber) to clean most areas…a scrubbing brush is necessary for edges and corners though…the places we cannot really get at with just a cloth.Dilution Rates for Glass Cleaner16 oz. Spray Bottles (double recipe for 32 oz.) Glass CleanerHard Floor/ Wood Floor Spray1 tsp. HP and 1 tsp vodka Fill with distilled or R/O water. Shake? tsp HP and ? tsp vodkaFill with distilled or R/O water. Shake. Glass Cleaner Spray cleans and polishes (without harming)….Bathroom and kitchen sinksTaps and faucetsTub and shower insertsTub and shower tilesTubsMetal in shower stalls and shower doorsBathroom and kitchen cupboards…handles tooBathroom and kitchen countersSoap dishes, toothbrush holders, tissue boxes, etc.Outside of toilets and toilet seatsHair dryers and curling ironsTowel racksHot and cold air ventsNic NacsWall ArtLight/Ceiling Fixtures and LampsMarble and granite counter topsStove tops and fronts (sides too)…just not stainless Dishwashers inside and out …just not stainlessInside and out of microwavesSmall kitchen appliancesExhaust fansBacksplashWindow sillsFramework and BaseboardsDoorsCribs, change tables, high chairs, playpens, toysFurnitureElectronicsWasher and dryerWastebasketsFloorsAnd of course, Glass and Mirrors SCRUB NON ABRASIVE DRYBaking SodaFor scented product, take your paper lunch bag, fill ? with baking soda, then add your favorite spices (I love Clove and approx. 10 whole cloves will do) or herbs (Lavender is great – just a small bunch) to the bag, fold top of bag and shake …. Remember to hold onto the bottom just in case the paper bag splits from the weight (you can use essential oils too…limit to 15 drops and shake bag) - Let sit for at least 48 hours. Remove herbs but if you use spices they can stay in the baking sodaI use a pure bi-carbonate soda, unlike the regular baking soda you cannot use this to bake with. It is finer in texture and seems to be more powerful than Arm and Hammer baking soda. If you have a natural food store in your area check with them to see if they keep this type in their store. It would be with the laundry products. It will remove stains, cut through grease and soap scum yet gentle enough to use on ceramic/flat top stoves and stainless appliances. You only need a little bit at a time for normal use…dip your slightly damp cloth in to the mixture and use (no need to pour on to surfaces). For best results, especially in tubs and showers, use a circular motion with a cloth. For certain jobs like inside ovens sprinkle on areas where needed, spray with a little bit of glass cleaner and let sit…preferably overnight. Just remember to finish with either your All-Purpose or Glass Cleaner Spray to remove the white residueYour Non-Abrasive Scrub is used to…. Remove soap scum from fibreglass tubs and showersInside of toiletsRemove stains from stainless sinksRemove grease prints from stainless appliancesFor scrubbing of pots and pansClean ceramic/flat stove topsHard to clean bathroom sinksRemove build up on taps and faucetsRemove stains from counter topsA degreaserThe above recipes are all you basically need to regularly maintain your client’s homes. The products you make from these recipes will do everything from scrub to shineBut there are times when you have to deal with hard water build up and heavy soap scum in bathrooms; stainless steel appliances that have a build-up of a conventional shine product; a client asking for you to polish the furniture and so. The rest of the book deals with specialty cleaners that you would not normally carry in to a client’s home but would be needed for first -cleans, move-outs and clients with special needs. LEATHER POLISHERAfter you clean the leather with your all-purpose spray (never spraying directly on the leather, only on the cloth), use olive oil to polish. Pour a little bit of olive oil on a slightly dampened cloth and rub in to the leather (only do a small section at a time and work in a circular motion); let it sit for a few minutes to allow the oil to absorb and then polish with a clean dry cloth until shiny dry.Use a wide mouthed glass container. Add 30 drops of essential oil to the container and rub it all along the side and bottom. Add your cotton balls…about 20…. Put lid on and shake hard. Let sit for at least a week…shaking every day. To use, take a couple out when you are ready to vacuum and place in vacuum bag or cup, turn on and vacuum as normal, the heat of the vacuum will fill the room with the scent of the cotton balls. KITCHENS & BATHROOMS STAINLESS STEEL APPLIANCE POLISHFor regular cleaning and polishing of a stainless steel appliance you generally just need a hot water cloth and a dry cloth for buffing. With this method there are no rules…you don’t have to follow with the grain unlike the conventional stainless cleaner/polishers. But if you find this is not working because there is a build-up of conventional stainless polish, the easiest way to clean and buff is with olive oil.You can use straight olive oil on cloth like we do with the leather polisher (follow the directions for the leather polisher) or you can use the same polishing cloths used for dusting that are kept in the jar. If you need to have it in a spray formulation for effect (some clients just cannot get past the simplest form of cleaning and need to see a product specific bottle, especially for the stainless)STAINLESS STEEL POLISH – 32 oz. Spray Bottle3 oz. Olive Oil1 tsp. VodkaFill to the top with Distilled /RO waterInsert spray nozzle and tighten. Shake before each use. Spray on to a clean dampened cloth, wipe and buff to a shine with a clean dry cloth.GROUT CLEANER/CUTTING BOARD CLEANER/DISINFECTANTPour 8 oz. of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide in to a 32 oz. spray colored spray bottle and fill the rest of the bottle with Distilled/RO water. Insert spray nozzle and tighten. ShakeTo use as a grout cleaner, use the stream mode for direct spray, targeting the grout. With a hand held scrub brush, gently work the HP in to the grout….just do a small area at a time and while you are letting one area sit for a few minutes, spray and scrub another small area…I always like to keep a small bucket of cold water beside me with a cloth. Go back to the first area, scrub one more time and then take the cloth sitting in the cold water, wring out and wipe up dirt and HP. Rinse cloth and wipe one more time. Go to your next area and repeat the process.For cutting board cleaner and all around disinfectant, spray and let stand, wait for the bubbles to appear (white foam) and then wipe. If you don’t see white foam after a few minutes the area is good.HEAVY DUTY DEGREASERUse full strength 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (don’t put the 2 together) in a 32 oz. spray bottle. Spray the area, let sit for a few minutes and scrub or wipe to remove built up grease or dust and dirtHARD WATER DEPOSITS ON TAPS AND FRIDGE DRINKING SYSTEMSFull strength Vinegar on a clean cloth and lay on the troubled area making sure the soaked cloth is not resting on any granite or marble.COFFEE POT CLEANERThe inside of coffee pots are sometimes difficult to clean so when normal cleaning procedure don’t remove the burnt on coffee stains pour in a baking soda and ice cubes (about 5) and start swirling the 2 together by holding the coffee pot in your hand by the handle and moving your arm in a small circular motion. The baking soda and salt meld together and with the whirlpool effect happening in the coffee pot the burnt on coffee is removed…dump the ice into the sink and rinse the coffee pot.KITCHEN SINK DRAIN FRESHENERPour baking soda (about 2 Tbsp.) into the drain. Pour about 1 cup of vinegar. Let it fizz and when it stops fizzing, add about a cup of boiling hot water.HEAVY DUTY SOAP SCUM REMOVER FOR SHOWERS AND TILES16 oz. 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, ? tsp. liquid detergent in a 32 oz. spray bottle and fill with Distilled/RO water. Spray and scrub, wipe away using either glass cleaner spray or light all-purpose spray and polish dryHEAVY DUTY HARD WATER SPOT REMOVER FOR SHOWERS AND TILES16 oz. Vinegar in a 32 oz. spray bottle and fill with Distilled/RO water. Spray and scrub, wipe away using either glass cleaner spray or light all-purpose spray and polish dry. For your own safety wear a mask and safety glasses when using this product in an enclosed area. The fumes from the vinegar will irritate the lungs and sting the eyes.JACUZZI JETS CLEANERSame as the recipe for Heavy Duty Soap Scum Remover ................
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