Repast.

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RAW & UNPASTEURISED

TALES OF EATING DRINKING & TRAVELLINGR BA

HONG KONG MELBOURNE SYDNEY SOUTH AUSTRALIA

FLAMIN' MONGREL

.au

Tanunda, South Australia 5352

Words

JEREMY HOLMES

Photography & Design

HEIDI HOLMES

Sub-Editor/Photography

LUCY HOWARD

For subscriptions visit .au

HONG KONG

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Le D?me de Cristal

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Mak's Noodle

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Unar Coffee

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Where to Stay in Hong Kong

12

Guo Fu Lou

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Yung Kee Restaurant

18

Amuse Bouche

20

El Mercado

24

Take it to the limit

28

The Ocean

34

Caf? Gray Deluxe

36

Fook Lam Moon

41

Tim Ho Wan

42

Police Married Quarters

44

Mott 32

MELBOURNE

50

Where to Stay in Melbourne

51

Caboose Canteen

52

Saint Crispin

56

Coda

57

Q&A with Paul Dumbrell

58

Rockpool Bar & Grill

60

Bellota Wine Bar

62

The Town Mouse

64

The Kettle Black

66

Supernormal

70

Tipo 00

72

The Fat Duck

76

HuTong dumpling bar

78

L?m?

82

Shit Hot

repast.

WINE

84

The Lehmann Cellar

90

A Very Generous Winery

96

Ch?teau d'Yquem

SYDNEY

100 Bentley Restaurant + Bar 102 Fratelli Paradiso 104 The Baxter Inn 104 Sepia 107 Wendy's Secret Garden 108 The Bridge Room 112 Firedoor

QUEENSLAND

115 The Fish House 118 On the Inlet 120 Harrisons

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

124 Seed 128 Osteria Oggi 131 Abbots & Kinney 132 Shaw + Smith 136 Walk the Talk 137 The Crafers Hotel 138 Botanic Gardens Restaurant 140 Mayura Station 142 The Barn Steakhouse 145 Where to Stay in Mount Gambier 145 Metro Bakery & Caf?

MUSIC

146 ACCA at the SACA& Caf?

Hong Kong has to be one of the most vibrant cities for food and wine on the planet. In this issue we get under its hot, sweaty skin to explore the places and people that make this joint jump.

There are tastings galore, thanks to a few brilliant events, with the Melbourne-based Monday Table boys, the Barossabased Kaesler crew and a few other tasting groups we had the pleasure of drinking with in Hong Kong and South Australia.

We go off the beaten path and eat some serious meat in the South East of South Australia. We give a few of the very best restaurants in Australia a road test, in Sydney and Melbourne, and front up twice in the same week for some of the best seafood you can eat in a restaurant in the South East of Queensland. Our piscatorial adventures don't stop there as further north we hunt for a Groper named George in Port Douglas, turn to page 119 to find out his fate.

Cheers,

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HONG KONG

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Four of the new tuxs I had made

Have a gander at Yung

Kee's goose

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Hurro, sailor

Tough day on the

market?

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Magic magnums

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Le D?me de Cristal

We were on a tight schedule. By my calculations, if we landed in Hong Kong on time and got a smooth run to the hotel to drop off our bags, we just may be able to make it to Le D?me de Cristal in time for our 8.30 dinner booking. Our plane had starter motor issues in Melbourne and the part had to be replaced. Fortunately, the offending engine did not shut down mid flight so we didn't have to test whether the new starter motor works but our flight was delayed by more than an hour. We arrived at the restaurant bang on 9.30pm and did our best to catch up to the rest of our Monday Table wine group.

The restaurant has a wonderful selection of its namesake Champagne. We had pre-arranged with the outstanding general manager C?dric Kerhir to bring a few of our own magnums

something green and herbal playing in the background. Acidity has been planed off a little on the finish from the oxidative elements. Opening the 2013 Blain-Gagnard Montrachet Grand Cru was an act of pure infanticide.

along. It may have been a bit cheeky of us to bring along a Thrilling wine but. It was showy on the nose with

2002 Salon Champagne but C?dric certainly didn't show whiffs of tinned pineapple, spiced pear, candied apple

any disdain. The Salon was as fresh as a trout. It was

and white peach. In the mouth, it had the layers and

accessible, creamy and voluminous. There were notes

glycerol one associates with this great vineyard but

of brioche, citrus, white peach and minerals. It didn't

also possessed a cool understated feel. All elements

have the rapier spine of some of the more recent vintages are in complete harmony and length is superb. Barring

and dosage seemed a little sweeter than I had expected. premox this will be splendid in a decade or two. The

Perhaps it was the exuberant youthful fruitiness of the accompanying fillet of turbot was sourced from France

wine. Delicious nonetheless. A Brittany lobster with

and cooked with skill but I kind of yearned for a fresh

shellfish bisque was an outstanding match with the

local fish, like grouper.

Champagne.

An excellent lobe of foie gras was grilled and served

Two white Burgs were next in line on our magnum play with sweet summer berries. This was followed by

list. The 2004 Bouchard P?re at Fils Chevalier-Montrachet an outstanding pigeon dish with a wonderful jus. It

`La Cabotte' Grand Cru had just a little too much

complemented a couple of stonkingly good bottles

butterscotch and grilled nut on the nose. There were

of red Burgundy most amiably. The 2009 Jacques-

dense, sappy orchard fruits in the mouth. Underlying

Fr?d?ric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru is one of the

minerality is good and there's a gentle thread of

most accessible, fleshy and tasty young Mugniers I

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C?dric dishes out the smoked Camembert

have tried. The fruit is ripe, tasting of black cherry and blackberries. There's a pleasant thread of floral spice through the wine. It is dense with waves of plush, velvety fruit lapping around the gums. Drill down into the core of loveliness and there's a base of mineral. Tannins are suave and length, fantastic. The 2002 Domaine de la Roman?e-Conti Roman?e St. Vivant Grand Cru showed massive influence from the stems. Huge smoky lift coupled with an enticing scent of rose petals. In the mouth it is dense, crisp and direct with bright raspberry, cherry and cranberry fruits. There's a hint of beef stock development creeping in and the finish is crisp and crunchy. It has terrific persistence. An ethereal wine in every sense.

Cheese course was Camembert smoked at the table in hay and served with mashed potatoes and chives. I thought it was superb. Dessert was Chocolate Grand Cru. A rich and decadent g?teau of chocolate with a biscuit base. We broke the magnum theme by only serving a 750ml of dessert wine. The 1989 Ch?teau Coutet Cuv?e Madame is just about near or at its peak. Ripe, forward and luscious. It has some toffee and caramel notes along with honey and dried fruits. It is powerful and mouth filling with intense sweetness and a finish that is long and clean.

This was certainly a decadent way to kick off our week in Hong Kong and a huge thanks must go to C?dric and his team for making the night special for us.

Le D?me de Cristal 2-3F, Nine Queen's Road Central (The Galleria), 9 Queen's Road Central, Hong Kong

Ph: +852 2116 4688

Camembert on a bed of potato and chives

Mak?

Mak's Noodle

After a restorative sleep, we stepped out into the blast furnace of the Hong Kong humidity in search of sustenance. I had noodles on my mind and nearby was a joint called Mak's. It looked authentic and, while I hadn't done any prior research, I thought I'd heard about it before. Let me tell you the soup noodles here are the absolute bomb. The only way this place could improve is by having toothcrackingly-cold Tsing Tao's on hand to wash them down with but I was forced to go down the Chinese tea path and felt healthy at the completion of our feed. On the way out, I noticed an Anthony Bourdain article on the wall. He may have visited here during his Hong Kong TV series. I suspect his method of choosing to dine here was backed up with a bit more research than mine but the result was the same. Noodle blown by mindblowingly good noodles. Mak's Noodle G/F, 55 Parkes Street, Jordan, Hong Kong Ph: +852 2302 0908 With various other locations

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No third-party endorsement needed for these noodles

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Unar Coffee

If you like Starbucks, then Hong Kong has got you sorted. If you like excellent espresso coffee, you'll have to get off the beaten track a little. One particularly good spot for an excellent shot is Unar Coffee on the second floor at the Kowloon Star Ferry terminal. The coffee is just like the wonderful old ferry that takes you across the harbor: It rocks! This is an offshoot of the street cafe Unar Coffee Company in Tai Hang.

Unar Coffee Shop KP41, 1/F, Star Ferry Pier, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Ph: ++852 2838 5231

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Where to Stay in

Hong Kong

One of the best hotels we have stayed at. Old-school opulence with understated, top-notch service. Rooms appear to be cleaned magically by invisible staff. A butler's cupboard in the room ensures no knocks at the door. The gym surely has one of the best vistas overlooking the harbour. And if it is your preference, a Rolls Royce is ready to ferry you around. Famous for high tea in the lobby, this can be booked if you are staying in the hotel while the rest of the world waits in the queue.

The Peninsula Salisbury Rd, Hong Kong Phone:++852 2920 2888

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High tea

Stunning view of the Hong Kong light show from the hotel

Bath, complete with TV

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